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Author Topic: Frankenstein Cliff Rock  (Read 1055 times)

terminusnout

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Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« on: April 22, 2013, 10:49:51 PM »

Anyone ever climb rock at frankenstein Cliff? I cleaned and climbed two routes on the upper southern tier in 2007 and didnt see anything else. In the amphitheater there were some very overgrow todd swain and doug madera routes that were listed in Websters guide. The cliff above that holds Bride of Frankenstein, a forgotten classic 5.10 corner done by todd swain. Was thinking about getting back there for some fa's this summer.
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2013, 11:01:40 PM »

Pretty sure that Jerry, Chris, Nick and Rossi spent some time there in the late 80's early 90's. Could be wrong though.
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Admin Al

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 11:12:56 PM »

there was definitely stuff done. the Webster guide mentions a number of things, but I'm sure there is lots to be done...
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Al Hospers
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steve weitzler

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2013, 01:31:21 PM »

Mike Cody and I went up there a few times probably 30 years ago and poked around.  I remember a lot of bugs and some crappy rock in places.
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strandman

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2013, 05:17:43 PM »

Bride is a really nice climb.... the upper,upper section has potential for sure,, good thrash as well

An f/a just left of bride i think ?
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Chinos

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2013, 07:46:06 AM »

def room for a lot more up there!
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Admin Al

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2013, 08:33:09 AM »

def room for a lot more up there!

get on it...
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Al Hospers
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strandman

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2013, 08:42:09 AM »

There's a certain arete.. you'll see it
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JHandren

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2013, 11:42:45 AM »

We did these routes on the Upper Tier (above Chia etc) in May/June1986 . They had some really good climbing but needed a fair bit of cleaning (mostly lichen)...its a safe bet that after 25 years they're back to nature.
L-R.
Stem like a Barstand 11a...a big open corner on the left. Mark Wilson misspelled the name in the new route book after a heavy early afternoon victory session in Horsefeathers.

Impressive buttress to the right. 3 routes that have the same start up an arete ( I think) past a bolt.

The Rocky Horrorshow 12b/c Past bolt then into long left-slanting groove on the left. Very sustained, not great gear.
Whispering Forest 11c/d Past the bolt then straight up a corner system to the top. Very Nice.
Atilla the Nun 12a...Follow Whispering Forest for a bit, then break out right and climb the steep face (4- 5 b's). This is what passed for a sport route at the time, but would probably be considered a bit runout by today's standards.

A slab leads to a steep headwall on the right.

Salamander Days 12a. Climb slab and launch up a thin crack system in the headwall. Hard move past a very poor pin (even then) to a rest. Then a difficult and tricky-to -protect thin crack to the top.  A very serious route.

Shaking up Orange Street 11a- 2 pitches. This route climbs a striking crack in the smooth wall down and right of the previous routes.  It finishes up an arete which is beside one of the three corners mentioned in the Webster Book. Rossy trundled an absolutely enormous block of the second pitch of this route.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2013, 08:33:18 AM by JHandren »
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kenreville

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2013, 09:58:50 PM »


We did these routes on the Upper Tier (above Chia etc) in May/June1986 . They had some really good climbing but needed a fair bit of cleaning (mostly lichen)...its a safe bet that after 25 years they're back to nature.
L-R.
Stem like a Barstand 11a...a big open corner on the left. Mark Wilson misspelled the name in the new route book after a heavy early afternoon victory session in Horsefeathers.

Impressive buttress to the right. 3 routes that have the same start up an arete ( I think) past a bolt.

The Rocky Horrorshow 12b/c Past bolt then into long left-slanting groove on the left. Very sustained, not great gear.
Whispering Forest 11c/d Past the bolt then straight up a corner system to the top. Very Nice.
Atilla the Nun 12a...Follow Whispering Forest for a bit, then break out right and climb the step face (4- 5 b's). This is what passed for a sport route at the time, but would probably be considered a bit runout by today's standards.

A slab leads to a steep headwall on the right.

Salamander Days 12a. Climb slab and launch up a thin crack system in the headwall. Hard move past a very poor pin (even then) to a rest. Then a difficult and tricky-to -protect thin crack to the top.  A very serious route.

Shaking up Orange Street 11a- 2 pitches. This route climbs a striking crack in the smooth wall down and right of the previous routes.  It finishes up an arete which is beside one of the three corners mentioned in the Webster Book. Rossy trundled an absolutely enormous block of the second pitch of this route.

I must say Jerry, your ability to unearth hard, great, "obscure" routes hasn't seen a parallel since you departed.
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terminusnout

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2013, 10:46:33 PM »

I second ken's notion. Jerry I did find some of those routes up there but found the bolts in poor shape and the routes quite gritty. You ok for a revamp? Im not in school this summer and catering for Madison Square Garden on the weekends so Ill have weekdays all week off and a ton of cash to spend on new bolts/hangers.
the area with the 12b, 11d, 12a seemed like it would be very popular if the bolts were replaced.

Last Wednesday I spent the day shwacking around the south side of Mt. Tom looking for more rock, there is some nice stuff up there but it was a total bitch to get in and out (lost my "way in" tracks on the way out and ended up on the summit of willard). Something about crawford gets my goat......
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JHandren

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2013, 12:01:08 AM »

Thanks Ken, though I'd say a certain Ray Rice took over that mantle long ago.

Terminusout...I think bolt replacement and new anchors would be great, although even with that I doubt that they would ever be popular.

As far as the old pins go, thats a tough one....if you replace pins with bolts that would really change the character of what were pretty top end trad routes (hard E6's I would guess). A type of route thats just really hard to find in that they are really bold but still doable without prior top-roping.

I would say
Option 1 is to take the pins out and see if modern gear provides better/adequate pro ( a 1" cam was the smallest available back then).
Option 2 replace the pins. But remember the pins were pretty crap placements in the first place, so don't use the excuse that the pins weren't bomber as a rationale for option 3...
Option 3 take pins out and replace with bolts...last resort if removing the pins destroys the placement.


« Last Edit: May 06, 2013, 09:58:24 AM by JHandren »
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strandman

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2013, 09:02:53 AM »

E6 ?? don't bolt them up  !!!

The rock isn't the best at Frank's but it's OK...a kinda tough approach for most folks

Snout- you should try Fixe pro-deal.. kevin can be pretty lenient
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JHandren

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2013, 09:54:41 AM »


The rock up there is really good John. Clean cut granite features but good friction and lots of random edges.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1105448479332&set=a.1105442039171.18238.1320384599&type=3&theater
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terminusnout

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Re: Frankenstein Cliff Rock
« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2013, 02:49:44 PM »

absolutely radical. Im not really with the pins for bolts trade off bull shit. I've really never understood that mentality. Ill see what is up there and work from there. Thanks for the info Jerry and thanks for the info on fixe strando. Thanks for the pics of nick too, that pic is a perfect example of how good the rock is up there.
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