General > Rock Climbing: Trad


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Ya'll betterget out there before Mark gets all the lines,   

black Flies---gonna be 20 years for a repeat.. MO
s gonna get it for sure

I was out at Greens this weekend. Bottom half of Black Flies was a river. Most of the other routes were high and dry.

Both pitches of Stewart's Crack are absolutely classic. Pitch one does check in at 5.9 but no way does the second pitch. The first 20' of pitch 2 is wide and flaring. I had no game and had to hang all over it. I wish i had some pics of my epic fail for Luke to analyze. Hopefully i can do better next time now that i have the gear figured out. Its a tough one to protect, i recommend double camalots #2, #3 and at least one each #4 and #5

Mark added a super sweet 5.7 on the left end late last fall. Mix of bolts and gear.  Its nice to have some more moderate climbing at the cliff. Hopefully he will add the info to MtProject soon.

You would love the new route i am working on strandman. 100' of sustained technical face/slab. Probably going to end up hard .11.

I also want to add a note about the condition of the bivy. We found several spruce trees cut right at the bivy ledge and a few toilet paper piles on the trail. I am sure it was not climbers treating the area like this, I was out there late last year so i suspect it was winter campers. Cutting live trees around the bivy and leaving the stumps three feet high is really bad form. Everyone i know who uses the area treats it with much respect so this was disappointing.   

david its really sad to see that in such a pristine area. When I was working in Custer State Park in the Black Hills you would come across areas that only climbers would visit and even then there would be endless piles of toilet paper flowers, even found tampons. I think as climbing gets more popular there is a paradox happening with ethics that at one time would seem commonplace.

I mentioned the paper in the Conditions thread before I saw this.

A note about the new 5.7. The anchor only has 1 bolt. I ran out of battery with a 1/2 more to drill on the second. Also, the bolts were tightened as wll as I could with a pair of pliers (forgot my wrench) I think they are fine, but I want to go over them again with the proper tool. I'll get to finishing the equiping  as soon as I get back out there, probably when the bugs ease off. Matt actually just got the FA since I couldn't get a partner to hump out there in the late fall and never got to lead it.  ;) I was tempted to solo it, but thought better of it..kind of dumb to slip on some rock dust and die.

i have some lines to finish up, but am planning on getting out to greens soon. the place looks amazing!


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