new area advice

[strandman]

Mark, Ward ?? i got new place... 40-70'.. 3/4 mile long.. a mix of sport,trad and some of each.. 4 routes.  What do you think about belays/anchors ??  Should the trad routes have tree anchors ?  double Fixe for everything ?  There are no locals or restictions

[JoeC]

Im not Mark or Ward, but I would do ring anchors for the trad routes too.  Just to keep it nice.  No tat and saves the trees.

[strandman]

ya, prolly  but 200 anchors ??  shit maybe I''l do single bolt with 9/16' webbing 

or maybe the pro deal from fix... help ?

[M_Sprague]

I'd go ring anchors or a couple quicklinks on each bolt hanger. You just have to see if others will pitch in. One 1/4" bolt + home made hanger with ratty sling might get the Safe Climbers Assoc. to donate for retroing 

I'd take advantage of any Fixe pro deal if you can get it for the bolts and hangers, but I wouldn't waste any money on thier fancy anchers beyond basic ring style.

[strandman]

i still have some 1/4"  the shorties and a Rawl hand drill that I'm saving for one last epic   leeper bit ready to go. i'm gonna hand drill the line right of camber or maybe under reach the Sky or?   

[eyebolter]

I have a few tree anchors I placed last year but you need to worry about replacement long term, and even short term if mice are involved.

Stainless steel 1/2 inch rawl or SS fixe glue ins are not damaged by mice chewing.

1/4 inch bolts?  Are you living in the 1970's or in China?

[strandman]

I don't know ... how about 5/16 buttons 

[JoeC]

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.

[Jeff]

If you need some John, I've still got a half dozen 1 and 1/2 inch 5/16 bolts; and never been placed

[sneoh]

Glimpse of the future?  http://wavebolt.com/
Price is attractive.

[strandman]

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.

Properly placed in good rock, 5'16 are much stronger than people  think.  Unless they get beat on, a powers 2 .75 " is super solid in most rock.. I used the 2.25 " x 3/8 for hand drilling in NH and never  had any dobts

[eyebolter]

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.

Properly placed in good rock, 5'16 are much stronger than people  think.  Unless they get beat on, a powers 2 .75 " is super solid in most rock.. I used the 2.25 " x 3/8 for hand drilling in NH and never  had any dobts

Why would you have doubts?  They are bomber strong when placed, stronger than stainless steel.

The people who clip that stuff after 10 years of the hole being full of water and rusting away unseen are the ones who have to worry.

[strandman]

Ward ,, i know.. if i were still bolting in NE it would be glue-in all over..... i'm just not getting that kinda action here.. i think 2 fixe rings with powers 2.75 will be fine

[kenreville]

All the bolts I ever placed were 3/8 stainless thunderstuds. Those fuckers are damn near as strong today as they were 20 yrs ago when I placed them.

[M_Sprague]

Don't you love when you put in a beautiful anchor and then the whole cliff falls down? I did that on the Thang at Rumney, 1/2 glue-ins and all, and now there is 50 tons of rubble at the base.