NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: new area advice  (Read 1233 times)

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
new area advice
« on: May 01, 2013, 06:05:07 PM »

Mark, Ward ?? i got new place... 40-70'.. 3/4 mile long.. a mix of sport,trad and some of each.. 4 routes.  What do you think about belays/anchors ??  Should the trad routes have tree anchors ?  double Fixe for everything ?  There are no locals or restictions
Logged

JoeC

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 228
Re: new area advice
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2013, 06:41:03 PM »

Im not Mark or Ward, but I would do ring anchors for the trad routes too.  Just to keep it nice.  No tat and saves the trees.
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
Re: new area advice
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2013, 06:52:01 PM »

ya, prolly  but 200 anchors ??  shit maybe I''l do single bolt with 9/16' webbing  >:(

or maybe the pro deal from fix... help ?
Logged

M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1578
Re: new area advice
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2013, 07:00:41 PM »

I'd go ring anchors or a couple quicklinks on each bolt hanger. You just have to see if others will pitch in. One 1/4" bolt + home made hanger with ratty sling might get the Safe Climbers Assoc. to donate for retroing  :D

I'd take advantage of any Fixe pro deal if you can get it for the bolts and hangers, but I wouldn't waste any money on thier fancy anchers beyond basic ring style.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2013, 07:06:37 PM by M_Sprague »
Logged
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
Re: new area advice
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2013, 07:06:14 PM »

i still have some 1/4"  the shorties and a Rawl hand drill that I'm saving for one last epic   leeper bit ready to go. i'm gonna hand drill the line right of camber or maybe under reach the Sky or?   

Logged

eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 596
Re: new area advice
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2013, 07:40:56 PM »

I have a few tree anchors I placed last year but you need to worry about replacement long term, and even short term if mice are involved.

Stainless steel 1/2 inch rawl or SS fixe glue ins are not damaged by mice chewing.

1/4 inch bolts?  Are you living in the 1970's or in China?
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
Re: new area advice
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2013, 10:08:03 PM »

I don't know ... how about 5/16 buttons  ;)

Logged

JoeC

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 228
Re: new area advice
« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2013, 10:49:50 PM »

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.
Logged

Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 783
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: new area advice
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2013, 11:34:47 PM »

If you need some John, I've still got a half dozen 1 and 1/2 inch 5/16 bolts; and never been placed >:(
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1965
Re: new area advice
« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2013, 11:57:11 PM »

Glimpse of the future?  http://wavebolt.com/
Price is attractive.
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
Re: new area advice
« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2013, 10:32:06 AM »

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.

Properly placed in good rock, 5'16 are much stronger than people  think.  Unless they get beat on, a powers 2 .75 " is super solid in most rock.. I used the 2.25 " x 3/8 for hand drilling in NH and never  had any dobts
Logged

eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 596
Re: new area advice
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2013, 07:11:07 PM »

There ya go.  The one I pulled out on the black carpet slab down here was a bitch.

Properly placed in good rock, 5'16 are much stronger than people  think.  Unless they get beat on, a powers 2 .75 " is super solid in most rock.. I used the 2.25 " x 3/8 for hand drilling in NH and never  had any dobts

Why would you have doubts?  They are bomber strong when placed, stronger than stainless steel.

The people who clip that stuff after 10 years of the hole being full of water and rusting away unseen are the ones who have to worry.
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4632
Re: new area advice
« Reply #12 on: May 04, 2013, 09:59:40 PM »

Ward ,, i know.. if i were still bolting in NE it would be glue-in all over..... i'm just not getting that kinda action here.. i think 2 fixe rings with powers 2.75 will be fine
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 455
Re: new area advice
« Reply #13 on: May 14, 2013, 09:09:28 PM »

All the bolts I ever placed were 3/8 stainless thunderstuds. Those fuckers are damn near as strong today as they were 20 yrs ago when I placed them.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2013, 09:54:35 PM by kenreville »
Logged

M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1578
Re: new area advice
« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2013, 07:20:21 AM »

Don't you love when you put in a beautiful anchor and then the whole cliff falls down? I did that on the Thang at Rumney, 1/2 glue-ins and all, and now there is 50 tons of rubble at the base.
Logged
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.131 seconds with 23 queries.