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Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 2555 times)

strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #90 on: May 01, 2013, 07:45:52 PM »

JJ- i never did ladder Line.. a fucking great solo... Pins and that stuff was better with water.  I still am amazed by Barry doin East of Eden  I could barely do that route, sometimes , on TR

Remember slabbin' on C wall / crazy, hard shit
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #91 on: May 01, 2013, 08:59:30 PM »

C-wall taught me a lot. like when NOT to climb hard routes. Unreal how greasy that place could get.
I had Ladder Line SO dialed, it made sense for me.
East of Eden? That was a death struggle every time for me. Barry doing that w/o a rope? Makes me nauseous.
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #92 on: May 01, 2013, 09:06:10 PM »

"Unreal how greasy that place could get."

Good climbing overall, but that pretty much sums it up.
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DaveR

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #93 on: May 02, 2013, 07:33:49 AM »

John, Ken, jj, pappy, and others. Keep the stories coming. As someone who has taken a huge interest in the climbing history of the NE over the last 25 years I find alot of them pretty interesting. Especially since many of the stories are being told about some of my early mentors such as TC and I have climbed most of the things you are talking about. Another one who has alot of stories but rarely posts here is John "Whitey" McLean. Just two of the many great climbers the NE has produced and they sure taught me a hell of alot in my early years.

My gf loves the quaries and I have LL dialed but I sure would not want to solo it! John, when was it first climbed and when was it bolted? The bolts are no longer there.
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DaveR

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #94 on: May 02, 2013, 07:35:52 AM »

"Unreal how greasy that place could get."

Good climbing overall, but that pretty much sums it up.

Greasy gets redefined at the quaries on a hot day! ;D
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #95 on: May 02, 2013, 09:47:08 AM »

Remember ladder Line was originally bolted, like 12 bolts. I don't know if it was chopped after being freed or not ('68) I beleive.

I bolted it around ' 86 or so and caught a lot of shit but so what ? Brilliant climb.

I met Whitey in '79.. never saw anyone else at the Woods for year and years...
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terminusnout

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #96 on: May 02, 2013, 04:55:40 PM »

Strando,

You got any stories of the ethereal area (bits and pieces, swinging hips, aiwass, unwanted)? did revolt and ethereal today and peeked at those from the top of buttress. Also.....you know what the next line left of Unwanted is? I dont know if someone did a more direct version of Aiwass or what it is but looks like a very cool way to get into the splitter aiwass corner without dealing with the V4 boulder problem. The bolts looked pretty new so I think that someone has resurrected something oldish?
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #97 on: May 02, 2013, 05:56:33 PM »

Maybe Answered Prayers  a tough 12B, maybe C

2 starts to Aiwass, the original one which we did, two bolts then right to the flake, pretty hard for '83. The Dunn start down and right  a single bolt in dark rock and an RP to the flake, nice WAY easier , 11C

I tried a direct start to Bit's one time.. really hard  13 prolly
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terminusnout

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #98 on: May 02, 2013, 06:48:24 PM »

Answered Prayers, that would make sense.....is that a Lowther route? I worked out Antichrist last season...Holy shit what a hidden hard and free classic. Speaking of people who left a whole slew of radical routes in their wake.....Lost Souls, Jacob's Ladder, Star of David, Fiddler on the Roof.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #99 on: May 02, 2013, 10:06:16 PM »

bill was a hard climbing MFO... try Pig Belly out at bartlett Haystack,, we did it like 20 years ago.. as good as Lichen It A Lot on Cathedral
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