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Author Topic: Consolation prize on Cannon  (Read 461 times)

Paul

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Consolation prize on Cannon
« on: May 18, 2013, 07:11:39 PM »

Does anyone have any information or comments on the condition of Consolation Prize on Cannon? I haven't ventured onto those slabs south of Slip of Fools since the old man came down.  Just wondering what it's like up there.
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lucky luke

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2013, 02:32:44 AM »

Does anyone have any information or comments on the condition of Consolation Prize on Cannon? I haven't ventured onto those slabs south of Slip of Fools since the old man came down.  Just wondering what it's like up there.

i did it two or three years ago. Second pitch, belay is hard to make, but doable. four pitch, i think, still easy, but with some kind of sand or small gravel on the hole, be carefull as there is not a lot of protection. If you take the crack on the right it is a good 5.7 and futher right after the crack is good too. the final diedral is still there in good shape.
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JBrochu

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 07:59:22 AM »

http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php?topic=3206.0

See that post and attached topo.

Also I think we replaced at least one more crappy anchor bolt last year iirc.

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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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frik

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 09:04:10 AM »

As usual, sane people should disregard everything Lucky says... 
No offense Luke, but Jeezuz, YOU SHOULD JUST SHUT THE EFF UP before you get someone in trouble... and not in the good way either!
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lucky luke

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 12:16:35 PM »

Quote
http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php?topic=3206.0

Pitch 1, 5.8  G corner (formally 5.6 ) 120':  This pitch was once 5.6 but a block fell out at the bottom of the crack, this new section is now 5.8.  Scramble up and left to the bottom of a left facing corner, traverse back right through hand crack (10 ft) and gain a right trending, left facing corner.  Climb corner to a pocket with a bolt(belay).

Here is the right description: Climb a right-slanting flake system and ramp to a belay. 100 feet.

I did that route and it is THE SAME ROUTE FINDING BEFORE AND AFTER the rock fall.

The description of the zigzag in the topo is this one:

Quote
Climb the first thirty feet of consolation prize (the right leaning ramp) then up a wide crack on the left to a ledge. (60 feet) ODESSSEY OF AN ARTICHOKE 5.10 (the 100 feet of the new variation is 60 feet more the traverse back right, odessey first pitch can be 5.8

On a climb like that, never follow other people advice. Always be ready to save your life by yourself by training different technique of safety at your crag (not hard bolt climbing). When you think that you know enought safety, try it in a chalenging route and come back again to your favorite crag to train your skill.

Never climb hard, as sport said. Your safety level most always be one or two grade over your climbing level (a 5,8 climber most know how to save his life in a 5.9 or 5.10 so he can bail).

Nothing worse than all those guy who climb hard and scare every one with bad route finding because they think that the are the best or because they think that, if no body climb, accident won't happen.

 








« Last Edit: May 20, 2013, 02:36:00 PM by lucky luke »
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JBrochu

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 01:20:01 PM »

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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

frik

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 01:30:04 PM »

I rest my case.

STFU, pretty please with sugar on top.
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davec

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2013, 10:30:15 PM »

 My advice would be do the first three pitches and rap down. I have been up there twice in the past two years and won't go past the third pitch again.
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lucky luke

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Re: Consolation prize on Cannon
« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2013, 11:16:17 PM »

My advice would be do the first three pitches and rap down.

or climb lake view or, still in good shape but bad reputation is "falling aspiration". some loose block at pitch five other way it is good.
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