Author Topic: VMC DD  (Read 1356 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3891
  • Nick Goldsmith
VMC DD
« on: May 20, 2013, 12:16:51 PM »
Any idea what the loose block situation is at the cows mouth? I think someone reported last year that a large block shifted on them up there? wondering if anyone has been on it since?

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2363
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2013, 01:20:36 PM »
What??? loose blocks on Cannon??? lol 
How you doing Trad? Been too long my man!  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1088
  • Doing God's work
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 01:26:26 PM »
I'm pretty sure this is the route I heard Tut describe as "not for married men."

 

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline frik

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 538
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 01:34:20 PM »
Nope that was YMC dike!

DD -> VMC is one of the safer routes on the cliff.

Offline JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1088
  • Doing God's work
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 01:37:38 PM »
Oooops, sorry bout that. I was probably drinking.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline SA

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 02:26:35 PM »
I was standing at the base yesterday, and I must say, that is about the only area which hasn't seen recent rockfall.

I went up to climb the WG with my daughter and there were at LEAST 5 separate teams on it, some not moving at all!

We finally ended up doing Wiessner's route, which was strewn with loose rock, in the middle section. There were 2 other teams on the route, as well. Busy day up there.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7181
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 03:28:39 PM »
I went up to climb the WG with my daughter and there were at LEAST 5 separate teams on it, some not moving at all!

We finally ended up doing Wiessner's route, which was strewn with loose rock, in the middle section. There were 2 other teams on the route, as well. Busy day up there.

wow, that WAS busy...
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3891
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2013, 04:54:36 PM »
Cant remember if I read  it here or on MP but someone said that a block moved when they were climbing through the cows mouth last fall?

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2013, 05:28:35 PM »
Oooops, sorry bout that. I was probably drinking.
Tuts was involved and you MAY have been drinking ? :) iam still recovering from JT in "83

Offline Bill

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 171
  • It's All Good, Just Climb!
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2013, 08:44:58 PM »
Saturday was busy as well.  Beautiful day.  Went up Moby with a friend who had never done it before. Was entertained watching a team on Benedictus as I belayed. 

While belaying Jeff on the FFF pitch from high left bail anchor I heard something whiz by behind my head.  I snapped around and looked down just in time to see a peregrine smack a bird.  Puff of feathers, a few labored wing beats to gain some momentum and he was off with lunch.  A really thrilling sight.

Speaking of loose rock, Jeff choose to belay in the choss above the Triangular Roof just short of the slanting dihedral.  We were climbing with a short rack and he wisely decided not to try to run it up to the FFF as I had suggested.  I hate climbing through that section and hate belaying there even more.  The rock there  is really, really scary.  There may be something to be said about getting a bar up there and doing a bit of gardening.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2013, 09:08:03 PM by Bill »

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3891
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2013, 09:13:11 PM »
INMOP trundeling on cannon is a super bad idea. The whole thing is a house of cards and the chances of starting a chain reaction that gets way out of hand is a very real possibility. Climb like a kitty, pull down not out and say your prayers.

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2013, 10:01:03 PM »
Trad- i'm with you on this one...cannon is a big onion, like half Dome..beware.. i have not done many f/a's but i think I could peel the slabs with my 36" bar and if i bring the big boy... the whole cliff

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2013, 10:44:59 PM »
Climb like a kitty, pull down not out and say your prayers.

+1, not sure why but I love this type of climbing...

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2086
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2013, 10:55:50 PM »
Was entertained watching a team on Benedictus as I belayed. 
Yo Strand, a bird told me that a goofy, strong young man is intent on climbing this TC route before heading out to Yosemite this summer.  Got to tell TC if I happen to happen to see him the next few weeks.


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1566
Re: VMC DD
« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2013, 11:25:08 PM »
While belaying Jeff on the FFF pitch from high left bail anchor I heard something whiz by behind my head.  I snapped around and looked down just in time to see a peregrine smack a bird.  Puff of feathers, a few labored wing beats to gain some momentum and he was off with lunch.  A really thrilling sight.

That story worth keeping the cliff natural, without any intervention iof human to pull block down. Many time the result is worse than what mother nature do. over the roof, i remember that brittle section was there in 1990. So, it will be there many years with good practice. doing the belay there, ore ten feet on the left where there is a piton and two or three solid placement for a belay, without the flake, is more trad than using a sling around the loose block, or using a cam to pull the block in a fall. Safety technique that many people don't know the existence.