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Author Topic: VMC DD  (Read 983 times)

tradmanclimbz

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VMC DD
« on: May 20, 2013, 12:16:51 PM »
Any idea what the loose block situation is at the cows mouth? I think someone reported last year that a large block shifted on them up there? wondering if anyone has been on it since?
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old_school

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2013, 01:20:36 PM »
What??? loose blocks on Cannon??? lol 
How you doing Trad? Been too long my man!  ;)
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JBrochu

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 01:26:26 PM »
I'm pretty sure this is the route I heard Tut describe as "not for married men."

 

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frik

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 01:34:20 PM »
Nope that was YMC dike!

DD -> VMC is one of the safer routes on the cliff.
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JBrochu

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 01:37:38 PM »
Oooops, sorry bout that. I was probably drinking.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

SA

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 02:26:35 PM »
I was standing at the base yesterday, and I must say, that is about the only area which hasn't seen recent rockfall.

I went up to climb the WG with my daughter and there were at LEAST 5 separate teams on it, some not moving at all!

We finally ended up doing Wiessner's route, which was strewn with loose rock, in the middle section. There were 2 other teams on the route, as well. Busy day up there.
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Admin Al

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 03:28:39 PM »
Quote from: SA on May 20, 2013, 02:26:35 PM
I went up to climb the WG with my daughter and there were at LEAST 5 separate teams on it, some not moving at all!

We finally ended up doing Wiessner's route, which was strewn with loose rock, in the middle section. There were 2 other teams on the route, as well. Busy day up there.

wow, that WAS busy...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2013, 04:54:36 PM »
Cant remember if I read  it here or on MP but someone said that a block moved when they were climbing through the cows mouth last fall?
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strandman

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2013, 05:28:35 PM »
Quote from: JBrochu on May 20, 2013, 01:37:38 PM
Oooops, sorry bout that. I was probably drinking.
Tuts was involved and you MAY have been drinking ? :) iam still recovering from JT in "83
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Bill

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2013, 08:44:58 PM »
Saturday was busy as well.  Beautiful day.  Went up Moby with a friend who had never done it before. Was entertained watching a team on Benedictus as I belayed. 

While belaying Jeff on the FFF pitch from high left bail anchor I heard something whiz by behind my head.  I snapped around and looked down just in time to see a peregrine smack a bird.  Puff of feathers, a few labored wing beats to gain some momentum and he was off with lunch.  A really thrilling sight.

Speaking of loose rock, Jeff choose to belay in the choss above the Triangular Roof just short of the slanting dihedral.  We were climbing with a short rack and he wisely decided not to try to run it up to the FFF as I had suggested.  I hate climbing through that section and hate belaying there even more.  The rock there  is really, really scary.  There may be something to be said about getting a bar up there and doing a bit of gardening.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2013, 09:08:03 PM by Bill »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2013, 09:13:11 PM »
INMOP trundeling on cannon is a super bad idea. The whole thing is a house of cards and the chances of starting a chain reaction that gets way out of hand is a very real possibility. Climb like a kitty, pull down not out and say your prayers.
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strandman

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2013, 10:01:03 PM »
Trad- i'm with you on this one...cannon is a big onion, like half Dome..beware.. i have not done many f/a's but i think I could peel the slabs with my 36" bar and if i bring the big boy... the whole cliff
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DLottmann

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2013, 10:44:59 PM »
Quote from: tradmanclimbz on May 20, 2013, 09:13:11 PM
Climb like a kitty, pull down not out and say your prayers.

+1, not sure why but I love this type of climbing...
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sneoh

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2013, 10:55:50 PM »
Quote from: Bill on May 20, 2013, 08:44:58 PM
Was entertained watching a team on Benedictus as I belayed. 
Yo Strand, a bird told me that a goofy, strong young man is intent on climbing this TC route before heading out to Yosemite this summer.  Got to tell TC if I happen to happen to see him the next few weeks.

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lucky luke

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2013, 11:25:08 PM »
Quote from: Bill on May 20, 2013, 08:44:58 PM
While belaying Jeff on the FFF pitch from high left bail anchor I heard something whiz by behind my head.  I snapped around and looked down just in time to see a peregrine smack a bird.  Puff of feathers, a few labored wing beats to gain some momentum and he was off with lunch.  A really thrilling sight.

That story worth keeping the cliff natural, without any intervention iof human to pull block down. Many time the result is worse than what mother nature do. over the roof, i remember that brittle section was there in 1990. So, it will be there many years with good practice. doing the belay there, ore ten feet on the left where there is a piton and two or three solid placement for a belay, without the flake, is more trad than using a sling around the loose block, or using a cam to pull the block in a fall. Safety technique that many people don't know the existence.
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