Author Topic: VMC DD  (Read 1313 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #15 on: May 21, 2013, 07:41:14 AM »
the only time i ever belayed at the pin slopeing ledge 40ft above the triangle roof was the first time i did the route following the description in websters guide. Now i climb from below the triangle roof all the way to the ledge just below the Sickle. Annother option is to continue P2 through the triangle roof and make belay on the small stance with a good crack 20ft above the triangle roof.

Offline Bill

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #16 on: May 21, 2013, 09:11:22 AM »
Love the "Climb like a kitty ..." line. 

After the first time, with the exception of Saturday, I or my partner have always run the rope out all the way to belay below the Sickle.  Eliminates a belay and more importantly minimizes time spent in the teetering house of cards rock pile.

Offline pappy

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #17 on: May 21, 2013, 04:16:06 PM »
You guys are really psyching me up to jump on Cannon. :-\  A buddy of mine is recruiting me to do the DD VMC. He even wants to bivy on it. (I told him to get over it, bivies ain't that much fun. Even the planned ones.) You're making it sound like survival would be a crap shoot. And here I thought I was being mildly provocative in earlier posts, insulting Cannon as a choss pile, when I guess I was just being accurate.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #18 on: May 21, 2013, 04:20:05 PM »
Its a total heap but it's the biggest heap we have :-[

Offline Bill

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #19 on: July 30, 2013, 09:50:10 AM »
Seems someone has been doing some inadvertent cleaning of the loose stuff above and to the right of the Triangular Roof on Moby Grape http://www.mountainproject.com/v/moby-grape/105884815.  Not positive it's a technique I would use. Wonder if it left that section more stable, less stable or the same? 

FWIW there seemed to be a good amount of freshly fallen big stuff at the bottom of the Big Wall when I was up at Cannon a week ago. 

To put it into perspective (? perhaps of some sort) only twice over the last ten years have I had rock break on me while climbing.  Both times it was when I pulled on it.  One time both me and a good size chuck came off together luckily as I was following.  Another time a piece broke off in my hand on lead but I did not fall.  Both incidents occurred in the Trapps at the Gunks, a notorious choss pile!!!  In first incident I was following the 2nd pitch of Nurse's Aid and in the 2nd was leading the 2nd Pitch of Ursula.  Maybe a question of being less alert/more careless climbing in the Gunks than on Cannon.

Offline kenreville

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Re: VMC DD
« Reply #20 on: July 30, 2013, 09:09:45 PM »
VMCDD is a spectacular route. The corner pitch3 is as good gets. A must do.
Can't say I'd wanna sleep up there Pappy. If given the choice.