Author Topic: Keeping the injuries away  (Read 1019 times)

Offline zcoburn

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Keeping the injuries away
« on: May 24, 2013, 09:16:57 AM »
I am wondering what regular climbers do to keep themselves from getting injured. Like your elbows, shoulders, and fingers? I guess do you have a regular routine you do to keep the injuries at bay?

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2013, 09:49:17 AM »
I'm pretty healthy, but the best thing I can do is to know when to back off and not push.   Your body gets stronger during rest, not during exercise, so you need to balance them. 

It is easy now for people to climb daily at the rock gym, which will guarantee injury.  Then people do stupid things like taking advil so they can keep climbing.

DLottmann

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2013, 09:51:49 AM »
Climb moderate (5.10 and under) trad routes... not much crimping going on ;)

I never climbed much sport but your question seems geared to those type of injuries...

I have started feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis from belaying 2-3 ropes up the slabs so I use my Cinch as often as possible to make belaying as effortless as possible...

As I hit my mid 30ís I'm realizing need to start thinking about stretching...

Offline pappy

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2013, 11:00:51 AM »

As I hit my mid 30ís I'm realizing need to start thinking about stretching...

As I hit my mid 50s I'm thinking about starting to stretch....

Nah.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline zcoburn

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2013, 11:20:39 AM »
Thanks! I guess I'm tryng to push beyond 5.9-5.10. Atleast for me my shoulders are a sensitive area.

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2013, 11:22:54 AM »
a good warm up and adequate rest in between hard days is important.   stretching afterward is more important than stretching before. 

if something actually hurts after climbing then you should ice it. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #6 on: May 24, 2013, 11:47:37 AM »
As I hit my mid 50s I'm thinking about starting to stretch....

Nah.

As I hit my mid 50s I'm thinking about drinking less and eating better....

Nah
Don't Climb

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #7 on: May 24, 2013, 11:58:33 AM »
From some perspectives icing is not always a good thing, though western medicine likes to prescribe it. Chinese medicine would often use the opposite treatment; warm compresses. I have never been one for piling on the ice and Advil and besides a few problems with my knee, I don't seem to get the cronic problems may other climbers have.

Besides what Ward said about knowing when to not over do it and get rest, I think making sure your opposition muscles are in balance is important, especially around the shoulders. Warming up properly seems to make a big difference.
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Offline steve weitzler

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #8 on: May 24, 2013, 12:59:09 PM »
Drink heavily....eat lightly :) ;) :D

Offline strandman

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2013, 05:40:09 PM »
Footwork will help the stress on your arms

Offline sneoh

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2013, 10:07:24 PM »
As you get older, warming up properly becomes more important and resting between workout/climbing days become mandatory.  I have been able to arrest the deterioration of my fingers by almost not crimping anymore (can't avoid it sometimes when placing/clipping the draws).   My elbows flair up occasionally when I overdo the overhanging stuff.  I think this is the same for most.  IMO - overdoing the dyno thing will eventually wreck your shoulders.  I have been lucky with my lower joints, probably more to do genetics than doing anything right. 
Staying active (take up a second sport!) and maintaining a healthy lifestyle also help.  Make sure to drink plenty of water (more than coffee/tea, soda, and alcohol combined).
And as John alluded to, constantly strive to improve your technique.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline SA

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2013, 07:52:06 AM »
Climb moderate (5.10 and under) trad routes... not much crimping going on ;)

Dman,

I wouldn't  assume everyone here is your age.

Wait till your approaching 70!

At that age 5.10 is not moderate anymore. If I had only climbed all my life, I wouldn't have all my nagging injuries. It was all the stupid stuff I did when I wasn't climbing that is nagging me now; as well as, genetics.
« Last Edit: May 25, 2013, 09:37:21 AM by SA »

DLottmann

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #12 on: May 25, 2013, 09:56:56 AM »
Dman,

I wouldn't  assume everyone here is your age.

Wait till your approaching 70!

At that age 5.10 is not moderate anymore. If I had only climbed all my life, I wouldn't have all my nagging injuries. It was all the stupid stuff I did when I wasn't climbing that is nagging me now; as well as, genetics.

Of course not, didn't see where I made such an assumption.

I'll be happy on 5.7 and lower in my late 60's to when ever I have to stop... Never cared that much about how hard I could push it, I just enjoy the whole pursuit...

Offline sneoh

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #13 on: May 25, 2013, 03:54:35 PM »
Take good care of yourself and you will still be climbing 5.10 and maybe a bit more even well into your 60's.  Don't let SA fool you, he still CRANKS.  You may want later starts, more moderate approaches, and short climbs, though. 

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: Keeping the injuries away
« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2013, 05:28:32 PM »
You may want later starts, more moderate approaches, and short climbs, though.

I already love those ;)

Actually my favorite days seem to be early starts, whatever approaches, super long moderate climb that I can do in approach shoes (maybe wear rock shoes for crux 5.7 pitch), and whatever for a descent... I should probably move to the Cascades ;) (or Red Rocks)