Author Topic: nostalgy  (Read 725 times)

Offline lucky luke

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nostalgy
« on: June 08, 2013, 10:53:59 PM »
I am in north Conway, and it rained. Staying in my tent, going at the bottom of the cliff, looking for dry route. all those thing remember me many experiences. I was in a slab route many years ago, perfect blue sky, when I said to my partner; "hurry up it will rain in an hour. Many years later my partner told me how astonished they were because we had rained and hour later. ving I told one of my partner, wait until morning to take a decision, and come to climb in the parc. He decide the night before and we had snow during the night. at five, the snow melt and by seven every thing was dry...but no partner. he decide the night before that he was not clibing, leaving me in the wood without car. An other time, I went to canon to climb fugue, a sustained 5.10 climb. The first five pitch are 5.9, 510. 5.9, 5.10, 5.9... and the easiest part 5.8 was the harder.  We camp at the rest area close to the border as we don't want to pay camping and want to be close to the cliff. When we arrived, we had cloud at the bottom of the cliff. Going to the bottom, we saw stream of water running down. We hike the trail, hopping for a rest, but the wind was blowing very strongly. We finish hiking Lafayette with trees falling here in there by the bad weather.
 of a cliff

I climbed fugue that day!!! I store enough psychological energy to want to go to the summit. I can't explain that, but I want that route more than any thing else. I was prepare to do it. On an other rainy days, I walked with Base at the bottom of the cliff. He explained me how to climb crack, finger and hand jamming. I was learning for the nose, Yosemite. But the discussion at the bottom of the cliff was more a question of the ethic of climbing than  a course. When you wait to climb and deeply want to be in the cliff, your mind are stronger and you really think at every possibility of the route.  If you fall, a rainy day will allow to practice safety and to talked with your partner of every eventuality. you climbed stronger and safer after.
I went to the cliff today and look at a party training self rescue. I was looking at them trying to rap after a fall two person at a same time on one anchor. I asked myself what will happen if the cliff have more than one hundred feet. As a 60 meter rope won't be long enought to allow them to reach the bottom. An I begun to be nostalgic about the time where, without computer, we had to wait at the bottom of the cliff to be able to climb.   

Offline terminusnout

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2013, 02:01:31 PM »
Every pitch on fugue is the crux....."virtuoso climbing on every pitch" -Ed Webster "we should bail at 5" -Casey Bald

Offline kenreville

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2013, 08:10:42 PM »
I climbed the Fugue like twenty years ago. I found it to be a bag of crapola. Sorry Luke. Not even close to a "classic" IMO.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2013, 09:29:34 PM »
. We finish hiking Lafayette with trees falling here in there by the bad weather.

I climbed fugue that day!!! I store enough psychological energy to want to go to the summit. I can't explain that, but I want that route more than any thing else. I was prepare to do it.

I wrote that in bad English, being nostalgic. As I red terminusnout... I remember in those days that I was ambitious, wanting to climb at my level and little bit over. a personal record. I remembered each pitch and agree with Casey Bald. Smiling because I also prefered to bail after the fifth pitch. But if I won't go to the top, I won't be able to say that I climbed the route.

I am nostalgic because we always find people at the bottom of a cliff to talk about safety or to try to climb in wet situation with a higher risk of falling. Because we learned, in those time where I was forced to relax, how to protect myself close to over my helmet.

When I red kenreville. I smelt... I smelt shit...

 


Offline kenreville

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2013, 11:58:16 PM »
. We finish hiking Lafayette with trees falling here in there by the bad weather.

I climbed fugue that day!!! I store enough psychological energy to want to go to the summit. I can't explain that, but I want that route more than any thing else. I was prepare to do it.

I wrote that in bad English, being nostalgic. As I red terminusnout... I remember in those days that I was ambitious, wanting to climb at my level and little bit over. a personal record. I remembered each pitch and agree with Casey Bald. Smiling because I also prefered to bail after the fifth pitch. But if I won't go to the top, I won't be able to say that I climbed the route.

I am nostalgic because we always find people at the bottom of a cliff to talk about safety or to try to climb in wet situation with a higher risk of falling. Because we learned, in those time where I was forced to relax, how to protect myself close to over my helmet.

When I red kenreville. I smelt... I smelt shit...

If you're gonna hang your hat on Fugue as anything close to a "good" climb on Cannon, well bub, I beg to differ.
It's a freakin' chosspile.

From one turd to another.

Offline smartpig

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2013, 12:14:26 AM »
The Fugue: Come on, Kenster, that was a fun pile of crap to climb.....good prep for the shattered high altitude rock climbing on the South Face/East Rib of Annapurna 1.  Sometimes there is value in climbing junk.
Jamie Cunningham
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Offline terminusnout

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Re: nostalgy
« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2013, 11:24:59 PM »
agreed ken, if there are much better routes at cannon for the grade that will not soil your drawers. LAB WALL.

agreed Jamie, cannon is great training for anything and everything alpine.