General > Beginners Area

Worth buying hexes in New England?

(1/6) > >>

I'm slowly starting to put together a trad rack, so that when I finally get around to learning to lead trad, I'm not faced with a massive list of gear to acquire. I have an opportunity to get a whole set of good condition used hexes for $50. I'm already getting an almost complete set of nuts and some other odds and ends, so I'm debating whether the hexes are worth it. I've heard that they aren't particularly useful in the north east, and that I'd be better suited to use that money on cams. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

$50 for a whole set, I'd say go for it... as you fill in sizes with cams you can start leaving some (or all) of them at home. Hex's are great for leaving behind in a pinch on bigger alpine routes... 1 bomber hex make a great bail anchor...

They got their place. I say go for it

Have to agree with Dave and xcrag_corex--remember that every pre-1980 climb in the northeast was led hundreds (thousands?) of times without cams!! They certainly can still be effective, just not deployed as quickly as cams and certainly not as easily as clipping bolts. A certain guy named Henry still only carries nuts and hexes! :-\

...He wears those hideous driving caps too. What does that say about his judgment?   :D

I bought some when I first started climbing. I ended up never using them except for a couple that were just bigger than the largest regular nuts. Some of the bigger ones I never even ended up threading with cord. For 25 years they sat in a box. I have actually started using them more now, as semi fixed pieces while cleaning routes  so I don't beat on my cams or worry much if they get stolen. A good placement of a 1 to 2" hex feels more bomber to me than a cam and they can take getting beaten on, so yeah, they do have their uses.

Personally though, I wouldn't bother with the set unless you have money to burn or there are a bunch in the set and you like the sound of Swiss cows. Maybe buy a couple to augment your larger sized regular nuts a little, but don't bother with the bigger ones. As soon as you get some cams they will most likely never be used.

As far as building up your trad rack, If you can I think it is good to get a feel for the gear and how it is used by seconding you friends  first, and then borrowing their stuff for your first easy leads. If your partner could use  some gear to fill the rack out then buy those first.


[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version