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Author Topic: the longest day ?  (Read 1099 times)

strandman

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the longest day ?
« on: June 17, 2013, 09:10:49 PM »

In NE.. for me the Big plumb on Cathedral by far.. recluse at 5:07 am was a good start.  we dropped down to finish Vent/western ladt.cali girls.. a suitable finish at 9pm.. 11+ RR and the up Nutcracker  17 hours... the girls had the drinks ready though
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terminusnout

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2013, 10:49:25 PM »

time wave zero, potrero chico, 11a A0, 24 pitches. 40's of Sol waiting in a stashed cooler at the canyon floor. Pure Fun.
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OldEric

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2013, 09:55:26 AM »

Cathedral Traverse - noy John's but the one in the Tetons.  I ws sort of the caboose on that one as I did it with my son who took the sharp end 90% of the tme.  That was 23 hours.  In contrast with the same son we did Time Wave Zero as mentioned above in 10 hours.  A couple days later we did the Snot Cirls/Space Boyz link up in 8 hours.  So one of us can move in any case.  Ah youth.
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DMan

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2013, 10:46:34 AM »

skinning from Chimney Pond 12 miles to the car pulling sleds after 3 epic days of ice climbing in Basin... that road sucks.

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kenreville

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2013, 11:15:49 AM »

Car to car 23.5 hours nonstop, the North Ridge of the Grand Teton with Cunningham. Lotsa veriglass as I recall.
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pappy

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2013, 01:40:56 PM »

The longest days are always alpine, several of which, such as the Mt. Fay affair, I've put down here before. But on rock, back in the early '90s there were some desultory attempts by a few parties to do two routes in a day on the main face of Whitesides with no success. During my obsession with putting up the direct finish to New Perversions (which no one ever got on), it occurred to me that New P was a fast way up, and, fuck two, I'll bet Sporty and me could do three. So the next weekend we did Traditions, the OR, and New P--30 pitches up to 5.12--in 12 hrs, including rapping the face twice. We did have them wired. What made it sweet was the next day Sporty went back to do Little Miss Dangerous with Beavis and they ran into Porter who announced that he and CC (or KK, I always got them confused), were about to be the first to do two routes in a day. 'Uh, got some bad news for you there sport....'

Also did the Diamond car to car in 17 hrs. as a party of three, which I thought was pretty decent for a 48 year old fat man.
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strandman

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2013, 08:06:11 PM »

in yosemite,, we tried Watkins inaday,, not quite... bivvie 4 pitches from the top  30 hours total.. what a climb.. harder than the Nose and no people....

Alpine is scary
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SA

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2013, 03:34:25 PM »

My longest day of continuous climbing was one week ago. My son and I did the regular route on Halfdome, but hauling the pack, which got stuck continuously, and certain delays, due to many teams on the route, and my old age status, resulted in 21 hours of climbing. Never  climbed with headlamps- it was kind of cool.

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eyebolter

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2013, 06:09:39 PM »

Graduated from high school early and went out to Yosemite in May, 1978.   We started Royal Arches in the dark, a bunch of parties started up after us and one fast party passed us.

Suddenly, everybody below us was rapping off and we couldn't figure out why.  We topped out as the sun set and headed for the "notorious" north dome gully.    Of course we headed down too soon and were rappelling off horns and other assorted crap anchors.  Buy now it was pitch dark and we couldn't see if the ropes reached the next ledge (no headlamps of course), so we stayed on the ledge, in shorts and T shirts...brrrrrrrr...no sleep of course.  I actually thought that the Earth was no longer turning: the stars over Half Dome did not move for what seemed like hours.

Once it started to get light we could see that our rope reached the ground.

So my longest day is longer than 24 hours I guess.

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strandman

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2013, 12:13:37 PM »

My longest day of continuous climbing was one week ago. My son and I did the regular route on Halfdome, but hauling the pack, which got stuck continuously, and certain delays, due to many teams on the route, and my old age status, resulted in 21 hours of climbing. Never  climbed with headlamps- it was kind of cool.

Damn, that's a long time to spend on the Big Onion...it must have been packed
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SA

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2013, 03:58:36 PM »

John,

I'm about as lame as I ever have been. You would look at me right now and think to yourself, " Shit, that guy looks old".

I'm wondering if I'm going to recover for a big trip in August into the Winds. It sucks to get old!
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Admin Al

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2013, 05:23:36 PM »

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eyebolter

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #12 on: June 23, 2013, 05:31:23 PM »

It sucks to get old!


You wish you had died young?   

I'm enjoying my post-50 life, at least so far.

And I'll bet a six pack that master Strand would completely smash your time on half dome (on the long side, to be clear) right now.

I think that you and your son did great.   Your time is nothing to be ashamed about.

 
« Last Edit: June 23, 2013, 05:35:19 PM by eyebolter »
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JohnR

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #13 on: June 23, 2013, 06:29:56 PM »

How about a long-ish day on one of the the shortest days?  17 hours to do Orion Face Direct on Ben Nevis, Jan '05".  Minimal to useless pro on the entire climb.  The summit: still and quiet "you could hear a snowflake drop."  The moon: to my fond memory, full,  and more super than this evening's super moon.
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strandman

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Re: the longest day ?
« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2013, 07:38:16 PM »

John,

I'm about as lame as I ever have been. You would look at me right now and think to yourself, " Shit, that guy looks old".

I'm wondering if I'm going to recover for a big trip in August into the Winds. It sucks to get old!

shit- i'd need a BMW just to get to the start now.. or a chopper. the walk into Penitente takes about 6-8 minutes (150) yards !

Is JB going to the Winds ??? i may have to come up for the Llamas and burro ride !
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