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Author Topic: Wine And Cheese 11a TR  (Read 566 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« on: June 18, 2013, 09:00:53 PM »

 We managed to sneak away from haying @ my sisters farm in E. Hardwick sunday  by leaveing sat evening and camping on Wheeler Mtn rd. we knew it would rain later in the day  but the morning was stunning. A few hikers but no other climbers despite the new guide book.  If felt a bit funny and quite relaxing going climbing without the monster FA pack full of pitons, bolts, hammer, drill, wire brushes, hand saws and all the other crap you need for north eastern fa's. The description in the book made finding the start of the climb easy. The first pitch was absolutly  beautifull pleasure climbing. slabby  clean 10a face to a good bolted belay. P2 was a bit tricky to find when reading the book.  The groove with cracks is really a left leaning flake system with tricky gear. Climbs really fun once you  give up on the cracks off right and commit to the flakes on the left. The 3rd and money pitch was stunning. Hard bolted face right off the belay (crux) to a pumpy roof and super exposed finish. standard rack to 3"
  If you do not have the new book Tough Shist  by Travis Peckham you are missing out on lots of great  climbs. Travis did an awsome job on the book and Randy hit it out of the park with Wine And Cheese 5.11a  hands down 5 stars!
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mopowers

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2013, 09:36:47 PM »

 8)

Way to go Nick and Isa! One of the best routes on the mountain. Super technical face to burly overhang, great job stepping up.

What did you do to get down? A bolted anchor at the top would be nice, i just dont think it's appropriate because of all the fractured blocks. What did you guys think? 

Next time you should do No One to Run With just to the right of Whine and Cheese. Every bit as good as p1.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2013, 09:50:47 PM »

We need to go back and get W&C clean first :-[ that  3rd pitch is burly to try and onsight! We walked off. I kind of liked the slung block belay up there. Feels adventursome. Wouldn't hurt to add a bolt to the belay @ the start of P3   I really think it is a stunning route. clean, good gear and for the most part sustained and only one very small brush encounter at the start of P2.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2013, 07:07:26 AM »

Think this one might be a bit harder than Buzzzkill..   maybe we are just getting older ???
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mopowers

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2013, 10:08:32 PM »

You might be right Trad. W&C is very sustained compared to the short crux on Buzzkill. The grades at Wheeler are most likely all screwed up. Sometimes its difficult to get an accurate consensus when only two or three people of similar abilities climb the routes. I tend to only use three grades 5.6, 5.9 and 5.11. :-[
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2013, 06:57:39 AM »

I hear you.  we have a bunch of routs  @ our new spot that have only been led by Isa, myself and maybe one other person.  several of them have the one really hard move and initialy we called some of those 11a but then I got completly Spanked on Milenium falcon and they certainly are not as sustained as Wine and Cheese or the Great Corner so i changed all the real hard climbs there to 10c :-*

then of course there is the Seneca factor. a single hard move does not make it a 5.10 in their book. If it has one or two sections of 10a and a bunch of 5.8 they call it a 5.7 :D
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2013, 07:00:43 AM »

Buzz kill fits our style. I think we are fairly decent slab climbers. wine and cheese is steep ???
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mopowers

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2013, 10:49:23 AM »

For anyone interested here is a video of Whine and Cheese 3rd pitch i shot back in 2004.

Your about to be dazzled by my crazy awesome camera and editing skills. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNsBzqxrmzc
« Last Edit: June 26, 2013, 10:52:24 AM by mopowers »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2013, 06:44:09 PM »

Sweet! great job makeing it look easy  ??? kicked my butt!
« Last Edit: June 26, 2013, 08:36:36 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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kenreville

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Re: Wine And Cheese 11a TR
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2013, 08:05:31 PM »

For anyone interested here is a video of Whine and Cheese 3rd pitch i shot back in 2004.

Your about to be dazzled by my crazy awesome camera and editing skills. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNsBzqxrmzc

Your dazzling skills are none too shabby. Nice.
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