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Author Topic: Mt Webster Slabs  (Read 543 times)

Travis_Dustin

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Mt Webster Slabs
« on: June 25, 2013, 01:28:17 AM »

We went out to climb Lost in the sun and A bit short on Mt webster and ended up on some slabs far far left and further up then where we were suppose to be. We ended finding a route that had some very spaced bolts and single belay/rap anchors. Does anyone have a clue as to what we climbed?
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Smear

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Re: Mt Webster Slabs
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2013, 05:40:13 AM »

Hi Travis,
I responded to your post on MP a couple of days ago  ;)
I believe you were on Bore Tide.Al has it listed on this site in the routes section under Crawford Notch.
Lost in the Sun starts a few hundred down and to the right of where you were.

Bore Tide:

Directions:  Park at the Willey slabs ice climbing pull off, either side of the road will due. Walk east toward Conway about 50 yards from the pull off. Look across the stream and you will see an old gravel bed that extends into the woods. You should be directly under the slabs. As you look up at the slabs the climb follows the long green streak of rock on the longest center right portion of the slabs. Follow the gravel bed into the woods for about 100 yards, trending slightly left. You should come to a large boulder ten feet in diameter. At this boulder look left and you will see a dry gravel stream bed. Follow this stream bed up to the base of the cliff. Half way up the stream bed you encounter a waterfall. Step right 50' or so and follow a light path that parallels the stream bed up to the base of the cliff. Approach time is fifty minutes to one hour. When you reach the cliff follow the base up and right about 100 yards until you are at the base of the large slabs. Bore Tide is directly straight up and you will see a corner to your left. 
Description: 1100' of imaculate rock on the Mt. Webster slab opposite the Willy Slide slabs. Basically it consists of one pitch of 5.7r followed by 800 ft of 5.2 to 5.5 with either a 5.10a or 5.10d bolted 40 meter finish. It's recommended that it be climbed simu-climbed for the first 1000' to a broad ledge then finish up either variation.

Pitch 1: 70 meters 3 bolts and a small cam or two up to a one bolt ring anchor.

Pitch 2: 800' of simu-climbing past very widly spaced bolts and the occasional gear placement. 5.2 to 5.5

Pitch 3: direct finish past 5 bolts on friction slabs 110' - 5.10a OR right hand finish past 7 bolts on friction slabs 110' - 5.10d

 
Gear: About 12 draws and small to micro cams and some medium tri-cams for the solution pockets. 
Descent: Rap the route 
History:  2006 -   

 
« Last Edit: June 26, 2013, 06:31:48 AM by Smear »
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Flotsam

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Re: Mt Webster Slabs
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2013, 07:07:12 AM »

Lost in the Sun is on the next slab down the notch.  The approach is a different run off and is way easier then Bore Tide.
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Travis_Dustin

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Re: Mt Webster Slabs
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2013, 07:58:37 AM »

Thanks for the replies. I thought we might have been on bore tide but wasn't sure. The top seemed hard but not 5.10 and I never saw a right hand 5.10d finish following bolts. either way It was a nice slab climb on great rock! The approach is not so nice but makes for an adventure,
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Smear

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Re: Mt Webster Slabs
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2013, 06:30:26 AM »

I have always wanted to do Bore Tide myself.
I just love the setting.
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Climber57r

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Re: Mt Webster Slabs
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2013, 09:38:29 PM »

Did the same thing a few years back as well. I remember clipping the first bolt very well to this day. I remember awkward moves right off the deck to an interesting stance below the bolt...then it eased up substantially. Cool climb.
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