General > Climbing Gear Q & A

Shoe recommendations?

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Led the Standard Route on the Precipice wall at Acadia yesterday. While trying to do a bit of stemming in the second pitch chimney my shoes lost grip and I damn near fell. Took a while to shake that out even though I was confident in my gear.......

So, I've known for a while that the Scarpas I have been using don't have the greatest rubber; yesterday just confirmed it and I'm now needing to upgrade in some form. I'm far from a well seasoned climber- I started climbing last year in the spring. I'd really like a pair of slippers but I'm open to resoling too. My feet aren't small, I wear a 12-13 street shoe depending on brand. I know Evolve size 13 slippers are way too tight since I bought a pair off ebay over the winter.

I'm still very much in the learning process of climbing so I'd like a good all-around shoe. Any recommendations?  I also have an older pair of Mythos that I'm not thrilled with the rubber on and I could send either pair I currently have out to be resoled- any recommendations on rubber if I go that route?

I think Scapra Force X might be right for you if they fit you well.  Good fit is key.
Grammy likes them -

I would recommend staying away from very aggressive shoes like the Sportiva Solution , Miura VS, etc for the time being.

At the risk of seeming like a wise guy (not at all my intention), if you have only been climbing since last spring, any shoe you've worn has incredibly sticky rubber compared to what many on this forum climbed on for years (or decades). Your footwork will improve and I would guess that if your feet slipped while chimneying, insufficient counter pressure was more at fault than the stickiness or not of the rubber. That said, having my shoes resoled with C4 (when they are needing a resole) has helped make all of them stick better (with the disadvantage that they wear faster). I have worn La Sportiva shoes now for years (they fit me best!) and have been very happy with the original rubber--I've never worn Mythos, but friends of mine regularly climb harder in Mythos than I've ever climbed in anything. I guess my point is that the rubber is part of it but not the biggest part. Climb a lot, try different shoes, and have fun! You've already tried two of the many brands out there-- I agree with sneoh--Fit is Key!

Ditto everything Jeff said. I personally like Five Ten rubber. Love my VMile’s but I don’t think they make them anymore. For bigger/wider feet I think Five Tens are the best fit, and modern Mythos.

You can climb Standard Route at the Precipice in Five Ten Guide Tennie’s once your dial in your technique... for an official suggestion, I would point you to these:

Actually, Jeff, that thought crossed my mind more than once- so no offense taken by me.

I did not mention that both the Scarpas and the Mythos I bought used. I think I paid $10 for the Mythos mostly to try them out and possibly to resole them. There's still a lot of rubber on the Scarpas though. When I first realized how non-sticky the Scarpa rubber is, I was following a slabby route at Devils Den that my friend had no issue with. I was having a very hard time keeping my feet from sliding. I don't see a long-term benefit to me having a super-sticky (and therefore soft) shoe right now, but I would like a bit more grip than I currently have.

Maybe I'm just trying to project my feeling weak from not having climbed in a month onto my shoes..... :D


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