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Author Topic: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.  (Read 490 times)

xcrag_corex

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Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« on: July 09, 2013, 12:45:39 PM »

So mid August I am heading down south to visit a friend/ help him re-do his bathroom. It's gonna take me a few days but for the second half of the week we are heading camping/ climbing.... Choices are either the New River gorge or Seneca. I climbed briefly at Somerville Lake and had fun.... Add some pros and cons and your recommendation. Choose my trip!!!!!
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M_Sprague

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2013, 12:58:23 PM »

New River Gorge, so you can go swimming at Somerville.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2013, 05:40:29 PM »

Depends on how hard you climb. If you are a solid 5.11 and up climber go to the New. If you like the 5.10 and under stellar well protected trad climbing hit Seneca. seneca also has good swimming and better cheap camping princess snowbird.
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sneoh

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2013, 07:57:34 PM »

You've got a lot of options at NRG and Summersville Lake if you are a SOLID 5.10 climber, both trad and sport.
Let us know if you want crag recommendations for NRG.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2013, 08:58:47 PM »

SOLID 5.10 climber = solid 5.11 climber ;)  Seemed like you could hike several miles in to an area that only had two 5.10's a bunch of 5.11s and a bunch of 5.12s
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David_G48

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2013, 09:11:36 PM »

It really doesn't matter what grade you climb as both areas provide great climbing from 5.2 up. There are more climbs at the New but there is something to be said about ending up on one of the fins at Seneca looking down into the valley of a farm on one side and the small center of town (Seneca) on the other. There is more to do at NRG in the town of Fayetteville than at Seneca. My choice would depend on where you are leaving from and how long you will stay. Seneca is only a couple of hours from Washington DC and NRG is around 5 hours from Wash. DC. If you are at Seneca you can visit Franklin and do some sport climbing or get Tom Cecil to take you to Nelson Rocks which is only accessible with a guide due to insurance issues (last time I checked). Both are great areas with the ratings at Seneca being more old school. I like Chesnut Creek Campgroung at the New even though there are a lot of rules and regulations but it has nice facilities My experience at Seneca has been best served when camping at Seneca Shadows in their walk in camping area where great views of Seneca Rock can be seen.
So both areas have trad and sport in close proximity but the New has more and better developed sport climbing. The New has a better night life and whitewater rafting if you wish to pay a guide company.
Hope this helps.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2013, 11:26:36 PM »

Personally i found Seneca to have a boatload more well protected moderate  climbing than the New. most of the easier trad lines at the new were seeping wet and all the bolted stuff that was dry was hard.
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David_G48

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2013, 11:33:57 PM »

Junkyard, Beauty, and the Bridge are areas with some well protected moderates that come to me at the moment. Too many people think that the new development areas should be good and they are but they are hard.
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2013, 06:38:35 AM »

Super helpful DavidG48. I was leaning towards Seneca because I have never been before. I like that its closer to home as well since we will have 3 days there tops. However I will have a couple no climbers with me that I wouldn't want bored out of their minds. If there is swimming at both places then maybe Seneca will be the way to go :) ...... But I must say..... The whitewater rafting at the new sounds nice. Thank you all for your suggestions. I'll let you know what I chose and how it went :)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2013, 06:58:08 AM »

The Junkyard is correctly named. slimy routs in the woods VS uber multi pitch classics to a world class summit.. Pretty hard to beat West Pole direct, Green wall, Pleasant overhangs, Gunsight direct, Soler,Alcoa, Tripple S, Marshals Madness, Crack of Dawn, Tomatoe, Extacy etc. or you can hike out to kaymoor and look at a dozen or so great routes totally out of your ability range and que up up the two climbs that you have a chance on....  seems like everyones girlfriend at the new climbs 5.12 :-[ 

The rafting looks killer though.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2013, 07:10:54 AM by tradmanclimbz »
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David_G48

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2013, 08:36:02 AM »

The swim spot at Seneca is in the parking area for climbing. Coming in for climbing go as far left as you can and park your vehicle (1/4-1/2 mile). Follow the trail at the end of the parking lot to the North Branch of the Potomac. Also, Yokums did provide horse back rides to the North Fin of Seneca. Mrs Yokum once told me that they owned Seneca Rocks until the state came and took the property from them for a bargain price but they still owned land right up to the North fin.
As tradmanclimbz said Green Wall, Pleasant Overhangs, West Pole and Ecstasy are all great 5.7 routes. Banana 5.6 to Gunsight 5.3 provides some easy climbing with exciting exposure to the top. Conn's West at 5.4 is another classic not to be missed. Prune at 5.7 is not for the 5.7 leader as there is a tendency to not place protection where you should on the crux and a slip results in damaged ankles (usually broken). Skyline Traverse at 5.3 can be exciting esp when you have to step over the void across the Drop Zone.
Crack of Dawn, La Bella Vista and Cottonmouth are excellent 5.10 climbs. Triple S 5.8 eats up a lot of nuts and can be rapped after doing pitch 1 which is the money pitch. If you are looking to climb harder there are some excellent 5.11s and 5.12s to be done. The Southern Pillar section requires you to use private property so be respectful, sometimes it is closed to the public.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2013, 08:38:56 AM by David_G48 »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2013, 05:31:29 PM »

Bannana has a sketch no fall move. Gunsight from the east side with the direct finish is good. Prune is excelent. Green Wall is the easiest of the 5.7's Mad man is annother  good 10. Conns East to Soler or Alcoa is great, etc. No Idea how the OP climbs  but untill I feel solid on 10+ onsight I will  most likly skip the New... YMMV
« Last Edit: July 11, 2013, 10:07:16 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Virginia/ West Virginia: lock in your votes.
« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2013, 06:58:42 PM »

I generally feel solid on leading 10. Looking like we may be doing a day or two at Seneca and then some non climbing stuff. Thank you guys for suggestions :) I'm excited to get down there. Place looks wild :)
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