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Author Topic: where to go for kid??  (Read 1108 times)

ecclimber1

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where to go for kid??
« on: July 13, 2013, 06:50:33 AM »

My 6 yr old keeps asking me to take him climbing.  Where should I go?  I have climbing experience but just having difficulty linking together in my brain easy beginner climbs (for adults) and fitting these easy climbs into a less than 4 foot tall 6 year old body.  Obviously top rope ideas are great but if I need to climb a  pitch and set a top rope I can.  I am thinking big crack, bolders, slabs.  Open to all suggestions.  Will drive to Conway region if needed but I am in Central ME and would like to stay closer.  Camden OK, Bethal/grafton OK, Clifton might as well go to conway in terms of time driving.  Well thanks for the suggestions. 
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JChepes

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2013, 07:04:05 AM »

Tumbledown Dick is close to Bethel west on 2.  Roadside approach and some great climbs.  Handren guide has lots of info.
Beautiful setting.
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eyebolter

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2013, 07:09:19 AM »

Not PC on this forum but have you considered indoors?   I haven't taken my 22 month old outside climbing yet, but she does OK on the wall in our basement, and most gyms have a kid wall set up where they can get up something.     A good place to go first and get a feel for it.   
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slacker

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2013, 07:38:35 AM »

Pawtuckway in NH is the first thing that come to mind.  The lower slabs are an easy hike around to get to the top and set up the rope. There are routes ranging from 5.5- 5.11.  There are many other walls threw out the park that offer similar opportunities but maybe a little more difficult to find.

Matt
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ecclimber1

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2013, 11:03:58 AM »

OK great ideas so far, tumble down sound like a good idea, don't know why I did not think of that.  Indoors, been there done that, that is why I keep getting asked when are we going outside, hope that does not sound negative but we started there, indoors, and when ever I left to go ice climbing, he was asking when do I get to go outside.  thanks for the input so far.
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eyebolter

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2013, 12:21:47 PM »

OK great ideas so far, tumble down sound like a good idea, don't know why I did not think of that.  Indoors, been there done that, that is why I keep getting asked when are we going outside, hope that does not sound negative but we started there, indoors, and when ever I left to go ice climbing, he was asking when do I get to go outside.  thanks for the input so far.


Sorry, didn't realize he has already been indoors.   Check out Lost Ledge in the routes section here, bolted slab routes as easy as 5.3.  Definitely get him on a slab at first so you don't have to worry about the reaches. 
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nuts

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2013, 05:49:43 PM »

Climbing slab and mitigating reaches is an excellent suggestion.  A good venue for this is the far right side if Whitehorse.  Down hill and climber's left of Beginners Route is a very clean, easy slab with a natural thread 80' up.  Look for a depressed sandy area known as "The Beach."  You can then progress to the first pitch of Beginners Route, then Standard Route at Square Ledge, which is littered with so many holds that height doesn't matter. 

The moderate routes at Tumbledown are in need of cleaning.
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Chris Magness

DLottmann

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2013, 07:29:35 PM »

The 1st pitch of Thin Air is ultra-perfect for kids. You can easily set up 1 or 2 lines left of the actual TA start to allow others to climb through. Basically climb to the bongs, then traverse 10 feet left on the huge ledge and build a gear anchor in the horizontal crack. Guides use this spot all the time with “family programs”. When you are done you can rap from the fixed bong anchor. The line the TR hangs on is about 5.3-5.4 face climbing... I’ve had 5 year olds cruise it...

Other spots that have kid friendly routes, Lost Horizon at Sundown “When Dads Run Free”, 5.4. Route description:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=94

Nearby “Rock Garden”, also 5.4, is kid free.

Square Ledge in Pinkham has plenty of kid friendly options... basically the whole west face and “The Chimney”, at 5.6.

Lost Ledge is good, but a little more of an approach than others mentioned...

Whitehorse Slabs, do 1-3 pitches. Up to the Quartz Pocket or even Lunch Ledge is popular with kids being guided.

While you have experience, consider having a local guide set you up for the day. It can take some of the stress out of it IMO. I’ll shamelessly plug the service I work for but there are others in the area as well that are also quite good:

http://www.emsexploration.com/climb/kids-family-climbing-programs/

A trip to Square Ledge last week:

http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2013/07/09/family-rock-climbing-at-square-ledge-7-5-2013/


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ecclimber1

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2013, 07:35:05 AM »

hey guys, thanks for the suggestions, made it out yesterday and things went well, already asking to go next weekend so positive experience!
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sneoh

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2013, 01:54:34 PM »

That is great to hear.  Perhaps I should ask you to work on my seven year old kid ....
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

eyebolter

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2013, 05:43:51 PM »

hey guys, thanks for the suggestions, made it out yesterday and things went well, already asking to go next weekend so positive experience!

Where did you go?  How about a short report?
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DLottmann

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2013, 08:44:21 PM »

hey guys, thanks for the suggestions, made it out yesterday and things went well, already asking to go next weekend so positive experience!

Asking to go again = total win! Glad you guys had fun and hope you post a TR.
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ecclimber1

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2013, 10:03:41 PM »

OK, trip report.  Started out at tumbledown dick and climbed a route there, pretty simple but full rope length and he got up high.  Was not seeing too much clean rock that was easy so continued over to squar ledge.  Climbed the first wall you come too, think it is the main wall or "standard route".  started on the left of it, then was able to share some climbing with a group just to the right or center of the face.  Nice relaxed incline, not too intimidating, holds everywhere so there was not much thinking on the youths part, just climbing.  Finished off with a swim in the river in some natural water slides just this side of dolly cop.  ON top of squar ledge he picked out the ravines and asked when do we go there?  hmmmm
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Admin Al

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2013, 10:09:51 PM »

sounds perfect... Square Ledge is a great place for kids to start. it has stuff at all levels, even 5.10 (the brain)! for the ravines think about the Hunting Ravine Trail to start. it really is climbing...
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ELM

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Re: where to go for kid??
« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2013, 09:42:35 AM »

No one's mentioned Humphreys. I know the trail can be sort-of sketchy but it is short to the climbs. There are a few "easier" climbs all within a short space. I am bringing my daughter out there tomorrow for her second climbing excursion. She has hikes a good amount with me so I know the trail will not be an issue for her. We'll be spending a good amount of time on "easy as pudding pie" and maybe "three bushes".
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