General > General Climbing

Longstack Precipice - Gradings

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First and absolutely most important - BIG kudos to the Chinos on all the work they've put into Longstack Precipice - trail work, cleaning the cliff, establishing routes, documenting them - and of course then writing a guide too. I can't imagine how much work and effort all of this actually took. BIG THANKS!

With that I've now been out a few times and each time has been an enjoyable, fun, low key climbing day. Maybe its just me however I tend to feel routes are under graded. At least the routes I've done (although consensus grades at Mtn. Project seem to agree on the original grades).

The biggest sandbag being Coyote Rain IMHO. Maybe it just exploits my weaknesses - and maybe being taller helps (my partner is over 6" - he made it look easy but still thought it was harder than 5.6). It still deserves all the stars it gets as its a stellar route!

So i'm just curious - what do others think that have climbed at Longstack in regards to grades? Am I just getting old!

Off topic a bit - this was the first time I was there and the local ATV trails were in use - a bit annoying but what can you do. They have their rights to use the outdoors too.

So far I have felt that the grades were pretty spot on.... However there is a relatively new route to the left of gentle violence that I would disagree with. I was told it was 10b. I worked the high crux move a bit and felt it was a bit harder than that.... Perhaps 10d.... A couple other people I bumped into at the cliff has tried it as well and thought it felt harder too... But everything else that I have climbed there felt accurate.

I agree with jeremy on this one, what i have found with the grades in the new durham area that anything below 5.10 seems to have a grey area. Climbs like strychnine and trifecta feel a tad over graded to me, however Gentile Violence is all of its 11c. The route to the left of GV is very cool, tons of variety, three very different, very interesting cruxes. I felt each of the cruxes were no harder than 10b with the exception of the very last small roof crux, without perfect beta it feels nearly impossible but with the right trickery its no more than 10d. If you get a chance check out Rand Mountain, my personal fav of the new durham area, a small compact crag with a wide variety of routes for such a small cliff.

Gradeing is really hard sometimes especially when you are climbing almost exclusivly at your own crag on routes that you have put up. developing a new cliff leaves little time for pleasure climbing at other areas.


I think the rating on Coyote Rain would change dramatically if one were a little short. I get spanked regularly on the harder climbs there, as I kind of suck on steep slab climbing, but I regularly solo Coyote Rain, since it is just right for me.

The regulars there call it the best 5.6 in N.H. and I agree. It is an amazing climb, with all those in-cut holds, in just the right places.  I only wish it was a 1000 ft. long.


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