General > Epics and Accidents

What should we wrote in an accident report?

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lucky luke:
The last report on the accident at cathedral is a good one as we have enough detail to know what happen. But, in general, what should we wrote in an accident report to respect the family and the climber.

On the accident in cathedral, we can imagine the shorter rope going true the device and the longer side pulling the rope true the anchor at the top as the climber felt. You can go outside to the nearest tree, sling a branch and test how fast you fall when you climb with uneven rope. You can use a glove to avoid that your hand burn and see if you can stop your fall when the rope go true the device. Instead of a glove, you can use a prusick on the rope and make the same test. In this really case, you will understand that rapping with a prusick under the device is more like using a glove than a second safety. But in both case, it will do nothing to save your life.

For that reason, I thing that the most important point when you report an accident, it is to wrote, in your argumentation, the major point: the rope going true the device. So, as an introduction, you can describe a brief history of people like you and me going to climb. In the argumentation, it is very important to describe the real danger: ď two uneven rope, the shorter going true the device and pull true the anchor and fall with the climberĒ Finally, in the conclusion, you can make suggestion to prevent the accident. Coiling the rope with both end at the same time, in two part. You throw the middle part first and the end part after, as your partner hold the middle of the rope, middle found when you coil both side of the rope togetherÖisnít it better than making a knot and deciding that, today, I donít need it and make a mistake?

I think that guideline most be tag at the beginning of this section. 

JakeDatc:

--- Quote from: lucky luke on July 25, 2013, 11:08:31 PM --- In this really case, you will understand that rapping with a prusick under the device is more like using a glove than a second safety. But in both case, it will do nothing to save your life.
--- End quote ---

a) where did anyone say anything about a prussik or autoblock in that case?

b)  You don't use an autoblock below the device to prevent you from falling on uneven ropes.  it is a back up in case your hand slips, you get knocked out, you need to be hands free to fix a tangle... etc

keep babbling noob..

lucky luke:

--- Quote ---a) where did anyone say anything about a prussik or autoblock in that case?

b)  You don't use an autoblock below the device to prevent you from falling on uneven ropes.  it is a back up in case your hand slips, you get knocked out, you need to be hands free to fix a tangle... etc

keep babbling noob..

--- End quote ---

It is the kind of comment who don't respect other people. I use an example that any body can test in his backyard to avoid stupid comment about I am good you are a noob...

Of course, you can have your own opinion and you can bring positively a discussion about the use of prusick. But it is too important to you to insult people who are not at your level as a noob.

This mentality, competitive, I am good you are bad, will kill the art of climbing.

DLottmann:
I agree with Champ that the set-up of a rappel does not need knots, and that locating the true middle mark is more crucial.

I agree with Jake that prussiks are not for preventing rapping off a shorter end, but for the reasons he mentioned.

I donít see how this needed a new thread, could have continued this in the accident thread.

frik:
For starters; I'd write the report in English.

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