Author Topic: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls  (Read 306 times)

Offline Adoherty88

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Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« on: July 01, 2015, 01:25:06 PM »
Hey folks, hoping for a recommendation for toproping areas in the Adirondacks. I am co-leading a trip for the AMC July 24-26 and although our ultimate goal would be for all leaders/novices to find their own partners, I donít think the numbers are working out in our favor. Me and my co-leader will both likely take on 4-5 climbers each so looking for a larger area to take one group and set up several ropes or two areas (not necessarily near each other) to set up a couple ropes.

Weíre staying at Sharp Bridge campground so hoping to climb near there or Chapel Pond. We are looking for climbs from 5.5-5.10 and both lead comfortably in that range so donít need walk-around access. We definitely don't want to hog classics so I'm hoping for recommendations that would help us figure out something suitable for our groups while minimizing the disruption of other climbers. Iíve only climbed in the Adirondacks during the winter so I appreciate any recommendations!

Offline Maxsuffering

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2015, 02:05:02 PM »
Off the top of my head I'll through out Beer Walls, Tanager Face, Deadwater, Creature Wall and Spanky's Wall. Maybe Jewels And Gems but the grades are definitely on the low end of what you stated. Left side of Pitchoff (AKA Roaches Wall) can be accessed easily to set up top-ropes, conversely these will be on the upper end of what you're asking for. Having gear for directionals and being able to lead definitely expand your options.

There's a small cliff a short walk from Sharp Bridge Campground. It's not THAT great but it's close to where you're staying and easy to set up top-ropes. Grades are in the 5.4 to 5.9 range.

Life's A Beach (5.9) at Bikini Atoll has been cleaned up and two okay 5.10ish routes added to the left. They're worthwhile, close to the road and won't have a crowd but there is no easy walk-around access to anchors (i.e. you'll have to lead).

Offline kenreville

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2015, 02:45:19 PM »
Go to Owls Head. It's on the left about halfway between Keene and Cascade Lakes. About a 20 minute walk. It is THE top rope spot.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2015, 02:58:08 PM by kenreville »

Offline Adoherty88

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2015, 03:25:33 PM »
Thank you guys for the great recommendations!

Since both of us are experienced leaders, we're less limited to actual toproping areas and I'm more keen to find areas away from crowds with routes for all ability levels. Deadwater looks like a great option in particular! On Mountain Project, it states "This is not a toproping area" because there is no walkaround access and there are anchors at the top of each climb. Do either of you know whether toproping is still frowned upon if we use our own gear etc. for anchors?

Even if that option isn't viable, it sounds like there are a lot of toprope-friendly areas out there which is a big relief when entertaining a crowd  :)

Offline Maxsuffering

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2015, 04:33:03 PM »
Deadwater is great, but I've been climbing there since it was discovered and that's the first I've heard of it not being a top-roping area. Just the opposite, the place was originally developed as a convenient guiding area, thus the top anchors -lead up, drop the rope through, lower, let clients burn rubber all day. Top-roping here is in no way frowned upon, have at it.

The cliff is probably perfect for you except the "away from crowds" part. You'll probably run into other climbers, although not the numbers you'll find at the Beer Walls or Owls Head. Due to the clifftop being a pain in the ass (though hardly "nearly impossible") to access somebody in each party has to lead so the level of gumbidom isn't has high as those two areas either.

Highly recommended: Reach For The Sky -you can rig a TR after climbing Buffalo Bob, but it's also a safe and excellent lead too, probably soft for the grade. Also Tombstone- not a top-rope, but too good to miss if you can swing it!

Lastly, make sure everybody in your group knows how to identify and avoid poison ivy!

Offline Adoherty88

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2015, 04:51:09 PM »
Awesome, that's what I was hoping to hear! I have to admit, I thought that it would be nice to lead some 10's (with easier routes nearby to satisfy different ability levels) which is what drew me to Deadwater. Reach for the Sky sounds super fun and I'll definitely check it out. The area sounds like a great option all-around (except for the poison ivy, of course).

Offline Adoherty88

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2015, 09:25:07 AM »
Just got back from this trip and wanted to say thanks for the awesome recommendation. Deadwater was perfect for our group! It had the exact right mix of difficulty to keep everyone entertained, had a nice base area, and dried out really fast after a rain on Saturday night. Our group loved Geronimo, Bozeman Bullet, and Tombstone in particular. The cliff is a real gem and very well cared for!

Offline darthgator

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Re: Adirondacks toprope-friendly walls
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2015, 11:13:03 AM »
Barkeater cliff