Author Topic: Rockfall on Intimidation  (Read 1612 times)

Offline om

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Rockfall on Intimidation
« on: July 25, 2013, 11:51:15 PM »
We were on Intimidation last weekend and found ourselves not recognizing the start of the P3. About 20' up from the ledge, where you about to move right from the flake over the column/corner and into what i think used to be the crux move- all that corner/column with good jug on top is gone. Now its a dull corner of yellow crumbling rock and it is not clear if it will take any gear and if actual moves are any harder or not. We bailed.
Anyone done it since the rockfall? Gear beta?
-om

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2013, 10:43:31 AM »
ooohhh....that's a drag.

it is worth pointing out that many people have the impression that Cathedral and Whitehorse are "stable cliffs". while both are more stable than Cannon, and Cathedral is probably more so than Whitehorse, rockfall can and does occur. fortunately it usually happens at times when there aren't folks around, but it does happen.
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Offline SA

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2013, 11:27:12 AM »
Sorry to hear that.

Maybe I will go and investigate.

I hope it didn't change the route too much!

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2013, 04:45:52 PM »
Sorry to hear that.

Maybe I will go and investigate.

I hope it didn't change the route too much!

I did the route three weeks from here and all was o.k. No rock above to fall and broke any thing. Futhermore, cathedral is an old granite and even repentance doesn't have crumble rock (mostly from partial melting of sand if my memory is good).

Any way, as they said with poko long time ago and the cliff is still climb by the old generation : "solid as a rock, who ever coined that never climb"   

Offline om

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2013, 07:51:25 PM »
Here is what was posted on MP 3 days ago:
"The third pitch of this climb appears to have had some recent rockfall, there is a big orange scar on the traverse back right before gaining the crack and evidence of rockfall at the base of the climb.
Although our party cleared off the biggest pieces of loose rock last weekend, there might still be quite some crumbly rock around, so be aware (falling rock will hit the trail below). Special care should be taken if linking pitches two and three as the rope(s) will run right below along the slab below and can potentially be hit by falling rock. Still a great climb and probably no change in grade."

I guess this party climbed through. Good for them, still wish to know what was it like, especially for gear.
Yes, SA, please investigate :)
-om

Offline krankonthis

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2013, 09:38:50 PM »
did it yesterday. there is still a good sized chunk that should go. the gear was not great. had a cam behind the  rest of the flake that fell off and two offset nuts behind another flake. the move I though was about the same, awkward.

Offline SA

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2013, 07:40:32 AM »
Hi Krankonthis,

I wonder if you can elaborate on the details of what fell off.

Having done this route many times, I am a bit puzzled as to what fell off.

From Bonfire ledge, I assume the huge white flake which goes up and right leading to the highest stance, just before the semi-corner, is still intact. From the highest stance, you would make a reach for the bomber crack, and step over to the steep slab, to the right of the crack.

I assume what fell off, is perhaps some rock, right in the corner, just to the right of the big white flake. The rock in the corner was less compact, and that block which people stood on, to reach the crack, used to be even taller, but many years ago, part of it fell off, making the move harder to reach the crack.

I will get up there and take a look, as I wanted to do the route again anyway.

I would feel bad, if this new rockfall put climbers off from doing the route in the future, due to poor protection.

Perhaps this is a rare case where a bolt needs to be placed in order to make the pitch "safe". I would NOT place a bolt until
consulting with other forum members.




Offline krankonthis

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2013, 08:37:51 PM »
the right side of the flake you stood on is gone.  probably a 5 by 15 wide section is gone from the flake. 

Offline SA

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2013, 09:07:41 PM »
Thanks,

I went up there today and was amazed at the size of the flake that came off.

It looks like the move might be a little harder, since the rockfall, and the pro. is certainly not as good.

I'm thinking a bolt might be in order, considering the new situation. It would suck to turn this into a 1 pitch top rope climb just because the gear would be suspect for that one move.

I checked out the fixed pin, (mine), at the traverse left, onto the steep slab leading to Bonfire Ledge.
It has never been checked in 45 years! I took it out, and put it back in.

It wouldn't hold much of a fall. I'm going to attempt to replace it with a thicker, stubby Lost Arrow, which will hopefully not bottom out.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2013, 09:10:54 PM »
+1 to drill it and keep it fun!

Offline ethatch

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2013, 09:27:29 PM »
Admins, could we have this thread moved to the now appropriate location? Rock Climbing: Sport  ?

(commence the hating)
"If you got the fuckin' spirit you rock, if you don't.....your a sport climber"
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DLottmann

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2013, 10:33:31 PM »
A bolt was placed on Robinson Crusoe when a much smaller flake broke off P2 that once held a pin... in these situations one should certainly respect the majority, esp. when it included the FA.

Offline ethatch

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2013, 08:38:30 AM »
D, that was 100% in jest. I should have added that I climb at rumney 5 days a week to make the joke clearer!

I've lead the climb and puckered on the first pitch and second. certainly no sport climb!
"If you got the fuckin' spirit you rock, if you don't.....your a sport climber"
    -leonard Coyne

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2013, 09:18:38 AM »
Sorry ehatch
Totally missed that one. Damn

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Offline JBeta

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #14 on: July 29, 2013, 11:25:06 AM »
"If you got the fuckin' spirit you rock, if you don't.....your a sport climber"
    -leonard Coyne!

Eric, if you're going to use that myopic quote from Coyne, at least you could use correct grammar. You+are= you're