Author Topic: Rockfall on Intimidation  (Read 1634 times)

Offline om

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #15 on: July 29, 2013, 10:38:19 PM »
I would also vote for the bolt to be added. I think the upper pitches don't get climbed enough as is and if there pro gets significantly worse it will not get done at all, which is a pity, since it is truly the best .10 on the cliff.

Thanks SA and Krankonthis for taking a look, really appreciate you guys taking (and keeping :) ownership of the cliff. Please let us know how we can help.
-om

Offline SA

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #16 on: July 30, 2013, 07:14:45 AM »
Hi om,

I talked with a few other local guides, who also did the route after the rockfall, and it looks like the general opinion is to add the bolt. I've been looking for my hand drill, which I had last year, but can't seem to find it.

I must admit, if the route got cleaned up a bit, I think it would be more popular. I can't believe how much lichen has grown at the top. I'm planning to spend some time up there with a broom, ( which I have never done anywhere before).


Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #17 on: July 30, 2013, 08:39:15 AM »
If you would like, you would be welcome to borrow my power drill so you can put a nice bomber 1/2" bolt in easily. I could meet you there. If you let me know in advance I could come up most days. I have some half inch SS Rawl bolts if you don't.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline krankonthis

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #18 on: July 30, 2013, 08:43:06 AM »
mark a 1/2 inch bolt  in granite is way over kill.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #19 on: July 30, 2013, 09:03:33 AM »
I like overkill. Either way, 3/8 or 1/2", if one is available, I think a power drill makes a better hole, not to mention it takes about 20 seconds.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline sneoh

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #20 on: July 30, 2013, 12:26:26 PM »
Would a grey colored glue-in blend in better with the rock than a shiny SS hanger?
Not to mention not having to deal with a spinner down the road.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #21 on: July 30, 2013, 12:36:00 PM »
Glue-ins actually are not as good as expansion bolts in hard, nonporous rock. The glue seeping into the rock is what makes them strong. Plus, if the route changes further in the future and the bolt needs to be moved, what a pain. A well placed 1/2" bolt shouldn't have much of a spinning problem in good rock unless people are taking lots of swinging falls onto it.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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Offline eyebolter

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #22 on: July 30, 2013, 12:37:41 PM »
I'm getting to really like the Fixe SS glue ins.  I use 1/2 inch SS Rawl/Power bolts too and the bit is the same, which is a big advantage. 

I have one straight up in a roof out at Crag Z behind Farley and I painted it to blend in.  Only 15 feet off the ground and I'm thinking of scraping the paint off because nobody can see it and they all think the second bolt (a Rawl) is the first.

Not sure that i agree with you Mark, especially in less than vertical rock.  The hole fills with water and you get freeze/thaw all winter long with an expansion bolt.  Even if the mechanical bolt is stronger initially, which do you think will be better (or even still there) in 100 years?
« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 12:40:04 PM by eyebolter »

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #23 on: July 30, 2013, 02:38:13 PM »
I was really going off of what the guy at Fixe told me recently, though you do have some points. I am thinking 'in balance' , since the better strength in softer stone vs. mechanical bolts is lost some in hard granite, so the ability to remove it later if need be becomes a bigger part of the equation. In this environment quality SS should last a long time even with some H20 getting in there. If the freeze thaw is affecting the stone it could very well be an eventual issue I suppose way down the road. In 100 years is the glue-in going to be showing wear?

Are you using 10mm or 12mm ones, Ward? We just ordered some of each for the RCA. The 10s are plenty strong, but I kind of like the 12s for the added beef on super popular overhangs that often get fixed draws (not that I want to encourage that) to handle the extra wear. They were quite a bit more expensive though.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline SA

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #24 on: July 30, 2013, 08:55:20 PM »
Just to let everyone know.

I borrowed a power drill from Brad White, and Rick W. gave me one of those new, pretty, glistening, stainless steel bolts, and a pretty  hanger.

The bolt has been placed a little above where the old pro, would of been, if the flake was still there. Unfortunately, I had 3 wrenches with me, and none of them fit the nut, ( I ought to have checked), so I'll have to rap off again Wed. and tighten up the nut.

Even Freddie W. sent me off with a smile--so I guess there won't be too much bickering over this new bolt.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #25 on: July 30, 2013, 09:00:00 PM »
Even Freddie W. sent me off with a smile--so I guess there won't be too much bickering over this new bolt.

Ha!

Thanks Steve

Offline om

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #26 on: July 30, 2013, 10:48:18 PM »
Forever grateful, Steve! Will get back on it for sure now.
-om

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Rockfall on Intimidation
« Reply #27 on: July 31, 2013, 07:32:13 AM »
Even Freddie W. sent me off with a smile--so I guess there won't be too much bickering over this new bolt.


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