My ignorance of climbing areas is often embarrassing and this past year my trips out have seemed to average once every 2.4 months. Pitiful. Kinda makes each day feel off the couch.
So Troy suggested Lost Horizon last weekend.
Where? Part of Sundown? Where's that?
He could have been talking about Rhode Island for all I knew.
But it was empty, the rock was awesome, and Troy was even psyched to lead some.
(Now that last doesn't seem so odd, but ... a. I'm a lead hog, b. Troy's an excellent belayer, and c. he doesn't always seem to enjoy leading when he's doing it. Which is why I get to lead a lot. If I'm the one holding the tube, I'm fidgeting and trying to push the rope and leader up the climb. I'm muttering "how hard can THAT be? why doncha put a piece THERE? what's taking so long?". And then I get up to that spot and have to admire his gear choices and wonder how to follow through that spot without hanging. And he's a big guy. "I wouldn't go so far as to call the brother fat - he's got a weight problem. What's a brother to do; he's Samoan." No, actually he's just built like a brick house and I'm always impressed with what he gets up clean. And he's happy, too, at least after the fact.
So anyway, we do those 5.4s (When Dads Run Free is a super-good climb!), couple of 7s (I think Punk Rock had the coolest traverse moves).
And I keep looking at the pin smack-dab in the middle of Kennel Boy whispering "I'm only 5.9, what's the worst that can happen?".
What an excellent little pitch. Takes great gear and it's practically evenly parsed into different climbing styles - start with a roofy thing (really an aręte), move to cool face holds, get the best finger crack for 10-12', and then stare at the slab finish thinking WTF!, no way this is 5.9. I get there, scratch my nuts for a bit, look down at Troy who says "I think you stay left". OK, sorta half-hearted effort - plop, back onto the ledge. Dammit. Look at the feet again, see a little lip way out left and Bob's yer uncle were at the tree. Whoohoo!
(The best part is that the Handren guide's got a typo and calls this 10a and since I max out at 5.9 that's what I'm callin' it.)
This whole Lower Kanc area seems huge and confusing, lots of climbs listed, not many starred.
So give your recommendations, your don't-bothers.
Maybe 4-5 climbs at each little area that are must-do. I can tell "Eyeless in Gaza" is a POS, but who likes "Venus Vermiculate"? (grin) Lay it on me; maybe I'll get motivated to actually get out every 2.2 months.
Oh, and when you're belaying Troy all you see is this:
Those calves are bigger than my head - that dude bikes everywhere.