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Author Topic: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc  (Read 572 times)

perswig

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Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« on: August 01, 2013, 10:53:20 PM »

My ignorance of climbing areas is often embarrassing and this past year my trips out have seemed to average once every 2.4 months.  Pitiful.  Kinda makes each day feel off the couch.

So Troy suggested Lost Horizon last weekend. 
Where?  Part of Sundown?  Where's that? 
He could have been talking about Rhode Island for all I knew.

But it was empty, the rock was awesome, and Troy was even psyched to lead some.
(Now that last doesn't seem so odd, but ... a.  I'm a lead hog,  b. Troy's an excellent belayer, and c. he doesn't always seem to enjoy leading when he's doing it.  Which is why I get to lead a lot.  If I'm the one holding the tube, I'm fidgeting and trying to push the rope and leader up the climb.  I'm muttering "how hard can THAT be? why doncha put a piece THERE? what's taking so long?".   And then I get up to that spot and have to admire his gear choices and wonder how to follow through that spot without hanging.  And he's a big guy.  "I wouldn't go so far as to call the brother fat - he's got a weight problem.  What's a brother to do; he's Samoan."  No, actually he's just built like a brick house and I'm always impressed with what he gets up clean.  And he's happy, too, at least after the fact.

So anyway, we do those 5.4s (When Dads Run Free is a super-good climb!), couple of 7s (I think Punk Rock had the coolest traverse moves).
And I keep looking at the pin smack-dab in the middle of Kennel Boy whispering "I'm only 5.9, what's the worst that can happen?".

What an excellent little pitch.  Takes great gear and it's practically evenly parsed into different climbing styles - start with a roofy thing (really an aręte), move to cool face holds, get the best finger crack for 10-12', and then stare at the slab finish thinking WTF!, no way this is 5.9.  I get there, scratch my nuts for a bit, look down at Troy who says "I think you stay left".  OK, sorta half-hearted effort - plop, back onto the ledge.  Dammit.  Look at the feet again, see a little lip way out left and Bob's yer uncle were at the tree.  Whoohoo! 
(The best part is that the Handren guide's got a typo and calls this 10a and since I max out at 5.9 that's what I'm callin' it.)

This whole Lower Kanc area seems huge and confusing, lots of climbs listed, not many starred.
So give your recommendations, your don't-bothers.
Maybe 4-5 climbs at each little area that are must-do.  I can tell "Eyeless in Gaza" is a POS, but who likes "Venus Vermiculate"? (grin)  Lay it on me; maybe I'll get motivated to actually get out every 2.2 months.

Oh, and when you're belaying Troy all you see is this:



Those calves are bigger than my head - that dude bikes everywhere.


Dale

 
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DLottmann

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2013, 10:58:44 PM »

Stiletto at Sundown is a great moderate often overlooked...  Rainbow Slabs, Tsunami, Perfect Wave...
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danf

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2013, 11:18:28 PM »

I've spent some time at Lost Ledge too. There's some really easy stuff (5.2-3) up to some moderates and harder moderates. I keep wanting to get back up there but I may be looking at your 2.4 month interval with next weeks surgery. :(

If you do go to Lost Ledge, whatever you do, do NOT follow the directions in the Handren guide. It'll lead to a straight uphill bushwhack. I left some directions on Mountain Project...
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Admin Al

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2013, 09:25:53 AM »

the directions to Lost Ledge on this site should be OK. there are also yellow blazes on the trees once you get across the stream and start uphill.
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Al Hospers
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perswig

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2013, 06:05:59 AM »

...once you get across the stream and start uphill.
Hey, now, nobody said anything about needing to walk uphill for this stuff.  Maybe I should go tubing instead.

Stiletto, Tsunami, Perfect Wave - check, on the list.  How about Take a Giant Step or The Petroglyph, Dave?  Any good?

Opinions on Thwarthog? Bon Temps Rouler?  Rough Boys?  Look hard but worthy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvbuNj37Z8I
Dale
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brickheart

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2013, 07:32:20 AM »

I think Zanzibar is a nice moderate (fairly easy) climb out at the end of Woodchuck.
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DLottmann

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2013, 08:44:58 AM »

Take a Giant Step is good, oh ya and Face Dances is a pretty fun easy .6 out there... And you should visit Lost Ledge if you haven’t already. “Found Arch” and “Washboard” are fun routes, along with many others.

Found Arch: http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=374

Washboard: http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=375

If you climb em’ let me know what you think. Joe Cote went out there with me Fall 2004 and gave me the run-down. After checking with Joe and the new route book at IME we returned a week later and bolted Washboard (2 bolts on a 100 foot 5.6 slab with one gear placement), unknown to us had been basically soloed by Bayard with a client 4 days earlier. I immediately spoke with Bayard and he thought the 2 bolts made sense on a 5.6 slab so they stayed. Definitely a great Fall location!

« Last Edit: August 03, 2013, 08:56:27 AM by DMan »
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Admin Al

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2013, 09:38:59 AM »

Dale - I also highly recommend Found Ledge. yes, it has a bit of an uphill approach, but the payoff is quite nice. there are a lot of nice bolted climbs on the Little Slab, a very nice trad one on the far right of the cliffband and a couple of easy slab climbs on the far left. in addition there are all the harder crack and face climbs on the Lumberjack Wall, just left of the Little Slab. you can easily spend a day there. it's especially nice in the fall.
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2013, 10:21:00 AM »

Al, did you mean to say Lost Ledge? I've never been to Found Ledge.
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Admin Al

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #9 on: August 03, 2013, 10:36:31 AM »

Al, did you mean to say Lost Ledge? I've never been to Found Ledge.

nope, I meant what I said... check it out. if you haven't been there, you're missing some nice climbing. about a 20 minute hike from the Kanc. the Perez's and I spent quite a lot of time up there a couple of years ago.

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes_locationList&SortID=1&LocationID=47&ClimbingType=1
« Last Edit: August 03, 2013, 10:38:07 AM by Admin Al »
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Al Hospers
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danf

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #10 on: August 03, 2013, 10:50:03 AM »

Al, did you mean to say Lost Ledge? I've never been to Found Ledge.
Had me a bit confused too, since the descriptions are somewhat the same for Lost, but reversed!
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slink

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #11 on: August 03, 2013, 11:24:26 AM »

 I have never lost ,lost ledge and never found, found ledge  :). Both places are pretty cool. Woodchuck has some cool routes but may be a bit dirty,the first pitch of The route of all evil to the 2nd pitch of Deadline is good also on the upper left side there is a small cliff with some nice routes.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2013, 11:28:00 AM by slink »
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Chinos

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Re: Speak to me of the Lower Kanc
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2013, 10:26:08 PM »

i agree with al, found ledge has a good collection of moderate slab climbs, as well as great harder stuff
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