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Author Topic: Thin Air...  (Read 768 times)

Admin Al

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Thin Air...
« on: August 05, 2013, 07:23:18 PM »

Been a while since I did Thin Air, probably 2 years, but I guided it this afternoon. I'd forgotten how brilliant it is. I think that it really does deserve all the kudos that it gets. The only letdown is the mossy slab at the very top.

On top of that it was a spectacular day. Cool, clear and dry without a single bug - it felt like fall. Doesn't get a whole lot better than this folks.
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Al Hospers
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perswig

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2013, 07:39:55 PM »

Stuck at work, all I could imagine was how nice it would have been to be climbing today.

You suck, Al!
Dale

(Thanks for the Lost Ledge advice over on the Kanc thread)
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

xcrag_corex

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2013, 07:47:39 PM »

I feel ya Dale!!!! I was stuck at work as well! It would have been nice to be a couple pitches up anywhere today..... Al you're a lucky dude.
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-Jeremy Ballou

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DLottmann

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2013, 09:05:53 PM »

Al, have you done the 5.8 finish? I havenít done that crappy last pitch in over 8 years since getting that 5.8 move wired. It makes for a much greater finish to a great route. Itís a really good pitch IMO, though short...

Itís also a great way to humble a client who hasnít had to really use their feet yet right at the end of the climb! ;)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2013, 09:12:33 PM »

Effin work! GGRRRRRRR i was going to go soloing after work but a piece of wood kicked back off the table saw and almost broke my wrist. ice and vitamin I instead of climbing :'(
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Admin Al

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2013, 07:10:54 AM »

Al, have you done the 5.8 finish? I havenít done that crappy last pitch in over 8 years since getting that 5.8 move wired. It makes for a much greater finish to a great route. Itís a really good pitch IMO, though short...

The straight up slab with the head wall finish? Not in 20 years. Is there any gear in it?
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2013, 07:13:41 AM »

A second day off in a row folks... Going over to Halls Ledge with George H to check out more of the new Chinos routes.

Eat yer hearts out folks...
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Al Hospers
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DaveR

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2013, 07:47:34 AM »

A second day off in a row folks... Going over to Halls Ledge with George H to check out more of the new Chinos routes.

Eat yer hearts out folks...

You SUCK!! :P
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DLottmann

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2013, 08:14:52 AM »

Al, have you done the 5.8 finish? I havenít done that crappy last pitch in over 8 years since getting that 5.8 move wired. It makes for a much greater finish to a great route. Itís a really good pitch IMO, though short...

The straight up slab with the head wall finish? Not in 20 years. Is there any gear in it?

Yup, some nice cracks on the lower bit. For the crux finish u can either put a double length on the tree to the right or a cam down to the left. Either way you'll plan on sticking that flat ledge if you slip off the move. I slipped once when it was wet and its pretty easy to stick that ledge. Think of it like a bouldering move...
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Admin Al

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2013, 03:33:48 PM »

I asked George & he said there wasn't much in the way of gear & he wouldn't recommend it for guiding. "Why push that kind of thing?"

I'll give it a try the next time I'm up there tho.

Al, have you done the 5.8 finish? I havenít done that crappy last pitch in over 8 years since getting that 5.8 move wired. It makes for a much greater finish to a great route. Itís a really good pitch IMO, though short...

The straight up slab with the head wall finish? Not in 20 years. Is there any gear in it?

Yup, some nice cracks on the lower bit. For the crux finish u can either put a double length on the tree to the right or a cam down to the left. Either way you'll plan on sticking that flat ledge if you slip off the move. I slipped once when it was wet and its pretty easy to stick that ledge. Think of it like a bouldering move...
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2013, 04:09:54 PM »

We ended up not going to Hall's after all. Due to a family issue I had to be closer to home, so we went over to Humphry's and climbed a bunch of the stuff on the far left end of the Geriatric Walls.

We started with George leading a climb I put up 2 years ago, but somehow forgot to put in the route section and now I can't remember the name. The route starts about 50' left of 3 Brushes at a mossy face, directly below an obvious arch about 50' up. Once you start climbing you see that all of the hand and footholds are clean and there are gear-placements in horizontals everywhere you want it. You climb to the arch past 1 bolt, step up and move directly left onto the clean face. You climb the face with a few gear placements, continuing to a 2-bolt anchor. I seem to remember it being 5.7, and that seems about right. Next I led 3 Brushes, a nice 5.5 that Chris Magness and Jessie Serroca put up. That one's always fun. After that I led another of my climbs I hadn't sone in several years, The Life Of Riley. It rarely gets done, but the 1st pitch is actually pretty cool.

After a snack George wanted to try doing an unclimbed vegetated face he had spotted as we were wandering around. He managed a line that wove up through some bushes and ended just below a tree. I won't say exactly where it is yet because he wants to go back and add a bolt since the upper headwall is unprotected. It's actually nicer than a lot of George's "adventure routes"!

All in all a very nice day. Perfect temperature and not that many bugs! We were both surprised that we didn't see anyone else all day.
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Al Hospers
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David_G48

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2013, 05:05:17 PM »

Al,
Was that route called Daddy needs a pair of shoes?
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DLottmann

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2013, 06:03:54 PM »

I asked George & he said there wasn't much in the way of gear & he wouldn't recommend it for guiding. "Why push that kind of thing?"

I'll give it a try the next time I'm up there tho.


You really should. And like I said, there is gear there if you seek it out, but not gear that will keep you off the perfectly flat sandy ledge below the crux move. It really is a mellow landing for the leader. And for the second or client, I havenít had a single one who couldnít be coached through the move to have an ďah haĒ moment regarding how well these climbing shoes really work (where else on TA do you figure that out)?

And, since you are belaying only 5 feet directly above them, a drop loop assist is but 5 seconds away if you really need to...

It is perfect for guiding IMO, and makes TA a 3 star route. The original pitch drops the over-all route to 2 stars... JMHO.
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Admin Al

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Re: Thin Air...
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2013, 08:02:12 PM »

Al,
Was that route called Daddy needs a pair of shoes?

Yes, that's it!!!! I had just gotten my new TC Pro's... ThnX
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Al Hospers
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