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Author Topic: What should we wrote in an accident report?  (Read 549 times)

lucky luke

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What should we wrote in an accident report?
« on: July 25, 2013, 11:08:31 PM »

The last report on the accident at cathedral is a good one as we have enough detail to know what happen. But, in general, what should we wrote in an accident report to respect the family and the climber.

On the accident in cathedral, we can imagine the shorter rope going true the device and the longer side pulling the rope true the anchor at the top as the climber felt. You can go outside to the nearest tree, sling a branch and test how fast you fall when you climb with uneven rope. You can use a glove to avoid that your hand burn and see if you can stop your fall when the rope go true the device. Instead of a glove, you can use a prusick on the rope and make the same test. In this really case, you will understand that rapping with a prusick under the device is more like using a glove than a second safety. But in both case, it will do nothing to save your life.

For that reason, I thing that the most important point when you report an accident, it is to wrote, in your argumentation, the major point: the rope going true the device. So, as an introduction, you can describe a brief history of people like you and me going to climb. In the argumentation, it is very important to describe the real danger: ď two uneven rope, the shorter going true the device and pull true the anchor and fall with the climberĒ Finally, in the conclusion, you can make suggestion to prevent the accident. Coiling the rope with both end at the same time, in two part. You throw the middle part first and the end part after, as your partner hold the middle of the rope, middle found when you coil both side of the rope togetherÖisnít it better than making a knot and deciding that, today, I donít need it and make a mistake?

I think that guideline most be tag at the beginning of this section. 
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JakeDatc

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2013, 11:57:11 PM »

In this really case, you will understand that rapping with a prusick under the device is more like using a glove than a second safety. But in both case, it will do nothing to save your life.

a) where did anyone say anything about a prussik or autoblock in that case?

b)  You don't use an autoblock below the device to prevent you from falling on uneven ropes.  it is a back up in case your hand slips, you get knocked out, you need to be hands free to fix a tangle... etc

keep babbling noob..
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lucky luke

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2013, 06:53:22 AM »

Quote
a) where did anyone say anything about a prussik or autoblock in that case?

b)  You don't use an autoblock below the device to prevent you from falling on uneven ropes.  it is a back up in case your hand slips, you get knocked out, you need to be hands free to fix a tangle... etc

keep babbling noob..

It is the kind of comment who don't respect other people. I use an example that any body can test in his backyard to avoid stupid comment about I am good you are a noob...

Of course, you can have your own opinion and you can bring positively a discussion about the use of prusick. But it is too important to you to insult people who are not at your level as a noob.

This mentality, competitive, I am good you are bad, will kill the art of climbing.
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DLottmann

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2013, 08:41:55 AM »

I agree with Champ that the set-up of a rappel does not need knots, and that locating the true middle mark is more crucial.

I agree with Jake that prussiks are not for preventing rapping off a shorter end, but for the reasons he mentioned.

I donít see how this needed a new thread, could have continued this in the accident thread.
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frik

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2013, 09:22:52 AM »

For starters; I'd write the report in English.
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JBrochu

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2013, 11:53:18 AM »

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lucky luke

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2013, 05:08:37 PM »

I donít see how this needed a new thread, could have continued this in the accident thread.


The thread talk about safety and the way to protect child against two danger. for example, in avalanche accident you will have to talk about the danger the group face, not a sermon on the benefit of an avalanche board, and about solution to climb safe. Fior example, one accident was that the climber was at the bottom of an avalanche slab and, as he moves left to get out....he cut all what stop the avalanche from falling. In that case, identifying the avalanche path was a solution, down climbing to be on ice only or, in very critic situation, climbing right true it.

I am so sorry to the next generation: stupid accident and restriction will made the sport as attractive as gymnastic in my young age. 

   
 
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JakeDatc

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« Last Edit: July 26, 2013, 05:23:36 PM by JakeDatc »
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darwined

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2013, 07:15:50 PM »

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sneoh

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Re: What should we wrote in an accident report?
« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2013, 08:16:31 PM »

Hilarious.  I am with Frik all the way - write it in understandable language!
No one reporting an accident on an informal forum like this is obligated to suggest a way to prevent the accident.  "Just the facts, ma'am" is what I say.  Formal introduction and conclusion?  Only if the poster wants to and feel comfortable writing them.

Competitiveness alone is not going to kill the sport.  It is how it is channeled that makes the difference.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ
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