General > New Rock Routes

Thank you Bosch/Home Depot

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So I head out today after the rain stops to put a couple of bolts in my new 12 that I toproped free on Wednesday, a short but sweet overhanging wall with crimps to a big both feet-off dyno.  I drill a stainless eyebolt and glue it in, then jug up the rope to put in the 1/2 inch stainless powerbolt above.  I drill that hole...and the 1/2 inch slides in like nothing.

I look at the bit...14 mmm (which is .55102 for us still on the English system).  The Bosh plastic holder says "'1/2 inch."  So I just put in an undersized glue in at the dyno crux that most people who get on the route are going to fall on-and fall on-and fall on - hard.

I need to do some research and see if the tolerance is acceptable.  If not, I need to drill it out and put in a bigger bolt.

Thank God I wasn't going ground-up 1,000 feet up some wall in Greenland with this bit and a bag of 1/2 inch mechanical bolts.

I've been bolting for 30 years and this is the first time this has ever happened to me.  Obviously I need to start looking at markings on the bit itself, as the difference wasn't obvious to the naked eye.  Big box stores suck big time. 

If you put in a 1/2" glue in the 14mm bit would be perfect.

The Red Head A7 Glue that you told me to use several years ago recommends a 9/16 hole for a 1/2 in anchor right on the tube. You are perfect, just looked at a brand new tube. I also have a project. ;)

Thanks Dave, I have a pm in to Kevin Daniels at Fixe, they reccommend 12 mm.  I called my brother last night and he said it would be fine, a slightly larger hole is ok though a too small hole might be a problem due to not enough glue. 

Went out today and lowered down, clipped in and bounced around on it.  Pulled the rope and sent it first go.  My buddie Steve took 5 hard falls missing the dyno before sending, so we are pretty sure the bolt is fine.

"Napoleonic Complex," 12 a/b.

Congrats, Ward. Still cranking hard, I see.
12mm is 0.7 mm less than 1/2 inch.  Is the glue-in bolt "nominally" 1/2-inch but really smaller in diameter?
12mm is very different from 14.
In any case, I am sure the glue-in is bomber :)  Easy for me to say since route with a dyno move and I do not mix well. :):)


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