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Author Topic: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot  (Read 533 times)

eyebolter

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Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« on: August 09, 2013, 07:27:20 PM »

So I head out today after the rain stops to put a couple of bolts in my new 12 that I toproped free on Wednesday, a short but sweet overhanging wall with crimps to a big both feet-off dyno.  I drill a stainless eyebolt and glue it in, then jug up the rope to put in the 1/2 inch stainless powerbolt above.  I drill that hole...and the 1/2 inch slides in like nothing.

I look at the bit...14 mmm (which is .55102 for us still on the English system).  The Bosh plastic holder says "'1/2 inch."  So I just put in an undersized glue in at the dyno crux that most people who get on the route are going to fall on-and fall on-and fall on - hard.

I need to do some research and see if the tolerance is acceptable.  If not, I need to drill it out and put in a bigger bolt.

Thank God I wasn't going ground-up 1,000 feet up some wall in Greenland with this bit and a bag of 1/2 inch mechanical bolts.

I've been bolting for 30 years and this is the first time this has ever happened to me.  Obviously I need to start looking at markings on the bit itself, as the difference wasn't obvious to the naked eye.  Big box stores suck big time. 
« Last Edit: August 09, 2013, 07:29:17 PM by eyebolter »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2013, 09:51:31 PM »

If you put in a 1/2" glue in the 14mm bit would be perfect.
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DaveR

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2013, 06:22:56 PM »

Ward,
The Red Head A7 Glue that you told me to use several years ago recommends a 9/16 hole for a 1/2 in anchor right on the tube. You are perfect, just looked at a brand new tube. I also have a project. ;)
Dave
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eyebolter

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2013, 07:27:42 PM »

Thanks Dave, I have a pm in to Kevin Daniels at Fixe, they reccommend 12 mm.  I called my brother last night and he said it would be fine, a slightly larger hole is ok though a too small hole might be a problem due to not enough glue. 

Went out today and lowered down, clipped in and bounced around on it.  Pulled the rope and sent it first go.  My buddie Steve took 5 hard falls missing the dyno before sending, so we are pretty sure the bolt is fine.

"Napoleonic Complex," 12 a/b.


« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 07:35:57 PM by eyebolter »
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sneoh

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2013, 07:40:37 PM »

Congrats, Ward. Still cranking hard, I see.
12mm is 0.7 mm less than 1/2 inch.  Is the glue-in bolt "nominally" 1/2-inch but really smaller in diameter?
12mm is very different from 14.
In any case, I am sure the glue-in is bomber :)  Easy for me to say since route with a dyno move and I do not mix well. :):)
« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 07:42:18 PM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DaveR

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2013, 09:16:16 PM »

Thanks Dave, I have a pm in to Kevin Daniels at Fixe, they reccommend 12 mm.  I called my brother last night and he said it would be fine, a slightly larger hole is ok though a too small hole might be a problem due to not enough glue. 

Went out today and lowered down, clipped in and bounced around on it.  Pulled the rope and sent it first go.  My buddie Steve took 5 hard falls missing the dyno before sending, so we are pretty sure the bolt is fine.

"Napoleonic Complex," 12 a/b.

If they recommend a 12mm drill then Fixe is not really 1/2"!

mm x .03937=inches
12mm=.472", roughly 1/32 smaller than 1/2"
14mm=.550", just less than 1/16 over 1/2"

I use Bosch 17/32 bits (they actually measure 17/32, I just checked 1) and they drill a few thousands oversize. Home dumpot does not carry them. I buy them from either MSC or McMaster Carr, whoever gives me a better price. I also built a fixture to regrind bits and they are as good as new. Sometime when I am out your way I will try and hook up with you and Paula to say hi and grab some bits to sharpen for you.

The bolts I am using are the same as Mark Sprague used to use at Rumney and they measure exactly 1/2" in dia. I also use the Red head A7 glue.

In some rock the rock itself is the weak link, not the glue. Forget the shear strength of a 1/2" bolt, Nobody reading this will EVER shear one off. Red Heads tech info gives numbers for straight pullout strength with a 1/2" anchor that are staggering even in concrete which is very weak compared to rock. I wouldn't worry about that bolt!

Dave
« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 09:22:32 PM by DaveR »
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eyebolter

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2013, 07:46:08 AM »

Sorry, to clarify it is fixe 10 mm, not 12 mm/half inch.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2013, 07:49:43 AM by eyebolter »
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sneoh

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2013, 10:51:13 PM »

OK, Ward.  That make a lot more sense.
Saw Chris today.  Have fun having Rumney to yourselves the next few days.  It was MAD HOUSE today.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: Thank you Bosch/Home Depot
« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2013, 11:27:30 AM »

Ward- I always bought Bosch sds bits  from a bosch store..good prices and no hassles. There are quite a few around
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