General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Rehab climbing

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I'm not quite ready (physically at least) to get back on the rock yet since I still have a tube hanging out of me after surgery last Tuesday. I'm hoping to get back out there in some fashion by the end of the month. When I do, I'll probably be looking for short approaches (1/4 mile or less is preferable but I would hope it wont be long before I can do 1/2 mile or a bit more). Unless TR is possible I'll be leading and easy to moderate routes- up to 5.6 trad or. 7-8 sport more than likely. I don't think I'll be wanting to do much more than a couple of pitches on a single route until I get some endurance back.

I know Devils Den and some places at Rumney fit the bill but any other suggestions? At some point I'm going to be looking for a top out with a good view but I might just have to kick it in the ass and get up Coyote Rain at Longstack for that...

The slabs at Whitehorse initially.  When you start to get yur lungs back Square Ledge(the timing should be good for the leaves). Even Lost in the Sun isn't a death march ? Once you start crankin harder hit Oscar or Sugarloaf(harder approach but easier routes and unreal views).

Good luck Dan.  Shoot me a PM if you need a partner. I don't give a shit about the grades!

Dan glad you are feeling better. Mt Willard "Hugos horror" fits the bill. pretty flat approach down the RR tracks

I second Hugo's Horror as well!!! Great route!!!

Jeremy  There is another route about 50 ft right of Hugos that is really good a little bit harder maybe 5.7???. Actually head towards across the universe and at the low point look for a bolt about 20ft up. The route heads pretty much straight up through the overlap for pitch1 then it is 3 more fun pitches straight to the top.


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