Rehab climbing

[danf]

I'm not quite ready (physically at least) to get back on the rock yet since I still have a tube hanging out of me after surgery last Tuesday. I'm hoping to get back out there in some fashion by the end of the month. When I do, I'll probably be looking for short approaches (1/4 mile or less is preferable but I would hope it wont be long before I can do 1/2 mile or a bit more). Unless TR is possible I'll be leading and easy to moderate routes- up to 5.6 trad or. 7-8 sport more than likely. I don't think I'll be wanting to do much more than a couple of pitches on a single route until I get some endurance back.

I know Devils Den and some places at Rumney fit the bill but any other suggestions? At some point I'm going to be looking for a top out with a good view but I might just have to kick it in the ass and get up Coyote Rain at Longstack for that...

[darwined]

The slabs at Whitehorse initially.  When you start to get yur lungs back Square Ledge(the timing should be good for the leaves). Even Lost in the Sun isn't a death march ? Once you start crankin harder hit Oscar or Sugarloaf(harder approach but easier routes and unreal views).

Good luck Dan.  Shoot me a PM if you need a partner. I don't give a shit about the grades!

[slink]

Dan glad you are feeling better. Mt Willard "Hugos horror" fits the bill. pretty flat approach down the RR tracks

[xcrag_corex]

I second Hugo's Horror as well!!! Great route!!!

[slink]

Jeremy  There is another route about 50 ft right of Hugos that is really good a little bit harder maybe 5.7???. Actually head towards across the universe and at the low point look for a bolt about 20ft up. The route heads pretty much straight up through the overlap for pitch1 then it is 3 more fun pitches straight to the top.

[xcrag_corex]

Slink ill have to check that out some time. I have been wanting to get back out there to give across the universe a go. I might try to get back there this fall and try to get on both! Thanks for the recommendation!!

[strandman]

the route you want is the traverse of whitehorse..20 pitches, easy and you can bail from anywhere with a single 70m. try the first half to the ethereal area..1,200' of mostly 5.3-5.6

[Admin Al]

the route you want is the traverse of whitehorse..20 pitches, easy and you can bail from anywhere with a single 70m. try the first half to the ethereal area..1,200' of mostly 5.3-5.6

gotta admit that I love the traverse. I've done it 6 times...5x r-t-l and 1x l-t-r. IMNSHO the l-t-r is harder. for the second downclimbing the eradicate dike is a bit terrifying (5.7r). it's a great thing to do in the spring or fall. the last time I did it we finished up on the top of Inferno instead of the bolt ladder. 

highly recommended!

[danf]

While the traverse sounds fun, I don't think I should make that my first trip to Whitehorse - at least without someone that knows the cliff! And I don't think my better half would like it if she didn't get to go....

[danf]

Is Mt. Willard covered in any printed guide books? I see some information on MP (and I'm assuming there's some info here tho I haven't looked) but unless I'm completely missing it it (which is very possible with me....) I don't find any info in either the Handren guide or Websters 3rd edition......?

[strandman]

I think Hugo's is on NEClimbs route section..Websters second has Willard, but it's from '96

[Admin Al]

lots of stuff on Mt Willard here in the Routes section...

[danf]

Not sure now why I put this in the "trad" section rather than the "general" section...

Anyway, I got out on the rock yesterday!  I had a hematoma develop next to my IV site on my right forearm Wednesday evening, and Thursday it was painful to rotate my hand at all.  I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get out over the weekend, but I was determined to try!

The Auto Road opened early yesterday morning for sunrise viewing, so we took advantage of that.  Up at 2 am, the only time that happens is when I have to plow snow...  After we got done on Washington, we headed to Lost Ledge.  The approach was longer than I originally thought I'd want to do, but after I'd been walking in the evenings and easily hitting a 3+ mph pace over 2+ miles, I didn't see any issues with heading to Lost.  For the first time out after surgery, and especially with my hand still hurting a bit, I really didn't want anything too hard and I didn't want to have to worry about placing gear either.  I know Lost well enough to know it fit the bill.

My better half and I ended up climbing 3 routes (4 pitches) and having the entire cliff to ourselves.  Ended up doing both pitches of the Hole Traverse, the first pitch of Gawking at the Broad Squad and the first 80' or so of Haley Hallie (up to the tree anchor).  I'd been eyeballing Haley Hallie for a while but had never gotten around to it, so to be able to do it on my first time out after surgery felt good.

While I'm thinking about it, does 4 Holes and Hole Traverse share anchor bolts?  Handren's descriptions says 4 Holes has bolted anchors and from his description of Traverse, there is a set of anchors directly above the flake he says to belay from.  Are those anchors for 4 Holes?