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Author Topic: reading a route  (Read 1377 times)

lucky luke

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reading a route
« on: August 12, 2013, 10:16:35 AM »

>Many times I watch a climber get on the wall, be it a boulder problem or a route, and storm up a few moves only to stop and begin poking forward with their nose, straining in one position trying to figure out where the hell to go next. Often this results in a sequence-botching, a wasted use of energy, and a defeated plummet to terra firma. Then they get right back on and do it again.>

Find that description on internet. My question is: reading a route correctly, without any fall at a first time, is it a beginer or a advance climber skill?
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DaveR

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2013, 11:33:56 AM »

I read this forum.


I climb Routes! ;)
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sneoh

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2013, 12:05:35 PM »

Good route reading is a skill we should all get better at all the time starting with Beginners. 
I do not think one can ever say I have all the route reading skills I will ever need.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

perswig

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2013, 01:10:57 PM »

>Many times I watch a climber get on the wall, be it a boulder problem or a route, and storm up a few moves only to stop and begin poking forward with their nose, straining in one position trying to figure out where the hell to go next. Often this results in a sequence-botching, a wasted use of energy, and a defeated plummet to terra firma. Then they get right back on and do it again.>

Dude, have you been following me around?  (Well, except for the bouldering thing - my Mom said bouldering leads to hairy palms.  And sport climbing.  I don't wanna risk it.)
Dale

(dammit, I just replied to a LL post)
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DLottmann

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2013, 07:54:17 PM »

It's a advanced beginner intermediate skill
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lucky luke

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2013, 08:58:07 PM »

It's a advanced beginner intermediate skill

best ever answer dave.

A+
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DLottmann

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2013, 10:10:11 PM »

OK, I’ll be serious. To answer your question without the well painted set-up:

"My question is: reading a route correctly, without any fall at a first time, is it a beginer or a advance climber skill?”

Beginner’s suck at reading routes. They constantly try to find a better hand-hold when we all know climbing is with the feet. As we progress to “intermediates” we figure that out. We no longer think “where’s the next handhold”, rather “how do I get my foot on that?”... That is the first epiphany. The rest is just trying to figure out how to use our feet better and on small holds... how to conserve energy, rest when we should, go when we should... etc...

Your question, like many you pose here, is impossible to answer because you leave two black & white answers. Beginner or advanced? Most climbers, especially those who are most active in these forums, are in between... they are not sport or trad, they are not guide or recreational... they are climbers... and for them... “reading a route correctly” is not in their vocab... but improving one’s route finding abilities is a great part of climbing.
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DaveR

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2013, 10:59:52 PM »

It's a advanced beginner intermediate skill

best ever answer dave.

A+

Does he get a gold star on his forehead? :P
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slink

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2013, 05:52:25 AM »

It is easy to answer.  Sport climbing grab the chalked up holds. Crack climbing jam fingers,hands, feet or what ever else fits in the crack. Here is the hard one slab and steep face with trad gear. If you can not see any of the holds you can not read the route at least from below.Sometimes you start out saying that looks hard and good holds show up and others well they are hard. Even beginners read routes they just do not know it.
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bailing is not failing!!!

lucky luke

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2013, 10:15:03 AM »

If you can not see any of the holds you can not read the route at least from below.Sometimes you start out saying that looks hard and good holds show up and others well they are hard. Even beginners read routes they just do not know it.

To answer dman, they are beginer, intermediate, advance and expert climber in trad (see old climbing book)

One can see the hole with there eyes, other with there hands. A good 5.11 climber (expert) will feel the hole with his hand and took the best of them. An advance climber will also be able to look at where the route go, as intermediate, the lack of technique will be more crucial than where to go. A beginer don't climb 5.11 slab ordinarly

There is also route finding in an overhang!!!

But as a beginer, who try a route fall and do it again to finally arrive at the top of the hill: are they 5.10 because they make a route with ten fall???
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eyebolter

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2013, 07:52:54 PM »

Mares eat oats and does eat oats and little lambs eat ivy.   A kiddleat ivy too wouldn't you?

Sorry, I've posted this before in response to a LL question but it still seems appropriate.
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DLottmann

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2013, 08:12:59 PM »


There is also route finding in an overhang!!!

But as a beginer, who try a route fall and do it again to finally arrive at the top of the hill: are they 5.10 because they make a route with ten fall???

You drive me crazy. No shit there is route-finding when climbing overhangs. No epiphany there so why 3 exclamation marks???!!!

Someone who falls ten times on a 5.10 isn’t walking around saying they red-pointed a 5.10, so what exactly are you asking?

I’m quite confident no one knows what you are really trying to get at...
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lucky luke

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!
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2013, 10:26:07 PM »

Someone who falls ten times on a 5.10 isn’t walking around saying they red-pointed a 5.10, so what exactly are you asking?

Oh! you felt ten time, climb the next day without a fall and you can walk saying they red point a 5.10!!!

Are they advance route finding climber? If they know the route, make all the move, they don't do route finding, they do memory training???

Isn't it?

odessey of an artichoke, second pitch or fugue at Canon two overhang.  One is tricky move to the right and the other is a counter force in a corner. missing link and lancelot at cathedral, the book... I did it at a 5.10 rating in the book iof ed webser!!! those who on-sight the prow!!!

How did you say that? no shit there is route finding in overhang!!!

I am super lucky!!!
 
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sneoh

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #13 on: August 13, 2013, 10:30:15 PM »

By definition, redpoint means mostly climbing a route "by memory" with little route-finding/reading left to do.  Not sure if this comes across as a revelation to anyone except Champ.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: reading a route
« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2013, 10:31:46 PM »

Your question: Are they "advanced route finding climber" because they worked the route prior to a red-point?

My answer: Who cares, glad they finally figured it out.

What's the point of this conversation again?

Yes... On-sight flash beats red-point after rehearsal...

moving on...
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