Visualization for one. [...} If you have done the move 50 times already you can visualize a similar one more easily.
As I like safety, I won't say how I can visualize a move in an overhang where the hold his out of sight?
Oh! I rap from the top so I can visualize the hold and told every body that I onsight the move from bottom up as bottom down didn't count!!!
More seriously, knowing our technique is important. To do an overhang, you have to know how to do a "retablissement" (in French forget the name in English). So, you can anticipate the move, take a look and try the move after for the good or the bad. One can say that a good aid courses will help here because pro can be as hard to place as in an A-3. Reading the route is also reading where to place pro where you can and need it.
Serious climber know that when you repeat a move 50 times, you know how to make that move. if you go in a gym and move one hold of six inches at each try for one technique, you will know the limit of your skill to do that technique.
I can be very strong at crack climbing and weak at face. In a route finding situation, the decision to try a crack or a face will change all the technique...and the rating. Today a lot of climber change the rating of a route because they try to adapt the route to there technique and they don't adapt there route finding to the rock.
