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Author Topic: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff  (Read 948 times)

M_Sprague

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Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« on: August 19, 2013, 10:53:18 AM »

This weekend Erik Thacher, Jay Conway and I cleaned and bolted a new route out at the lower tier of the NEern Crags of Green's, Bigfoot Was Here. It is a really sweet 85 foot sharp orange arete protected by bolts and gear. We are thinking around 12 a/b or b for a grade. Expecting it was going to be a lot harder, I opted for a TR ascent, then Jay cruised the lead FA. I took a bunch of pictures with Eric's phone but managed to some how cover half the lens with my finger (doh!) on many of them. If one came out maybe he will post it up or I will try to get better ones next week. I'll let Jay describe the gear as he probably remembers it better than I.

Also, Amy Colburn lead the first pitch of her crack project off to the left. No name or definitive grade yet. The second pitch looks really nice, up into a great finger crack.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2013, 05:33:38 PM by M_Sprague »
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strandman

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2013, 11:24:32 AM »

Nice !..i guess Amy's knee is better
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M_Sprague

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2013, 03:32:09 PM »

Seemed fine. She hiked in three days this week to work on her route. On her way to Tuolumne tomorrow I think she said.
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darwined

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2013, 04:38:08 PM »

Seemed fine. She hiked in three days this week to work on her route. On her way to Tuolumne tomorrow I think she said.

LUCKY!
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strandman

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2013, 04:54:05 PM »

Mark- can you get  Jay to go another hour to the main crag ?
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M_Sprague

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2013, 06:51:22 PM »

I did get them over there in the afternoon. He was asking about your route and seemed to like the terrain above it. The original plan was to head over there to climb something after doing the arete, but that idea turned out to be a little ambitions, so we just headed over without gear and did a roundabout tour of the Main Wall and the Alcove, with a little 5.11 bushwhacking thrown in for seasoning. Had to test them to see if they were well rounded enough for the main cliff you know... :P
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jayconway

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2013, 08:16:33 AM »

Big thanks to Mark for prepping this route. One of few true NH aretes. This has one of the best rest jugs in the whites, half way up the arete. Looking to the north you have a great view of Mt Washington, to the south Chocoura, and of course Sawyer pond.

With Marks new approach this route is practically roadside for a backcountry crag! Well worth the hike, around an hour 15. We used a green c3 before the first bolt, 3 finger sized pieces, a .5 for the top, and 6 bolts. Psyched to get back out to the main wall. Cell phone pics below.






Erik Thatcher heel hooking the arete.



Spraguey sending on TR



Go do it!

Jay
« Last Edit: August 20, 2013, 08:19:15 AM by jayconway »
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Admin Al

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2013, 09:09:31 AM »

looks fantastic... thanks for posting the pix. Kudos to Jay for the send!
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sneoh

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2013, 09:38:05 AM »

Looks awesome.  Such a classic line.  Congrats guys.
How does the stem corner look/climb?
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M_Sprague

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here - Green's Cliff
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2013, 11:33:27 AM »

The chimney/corner/hand/finger crack to the right is great. I have to scrub a little more on the bottom and plan on climbing it next weekend when Brady and Todd Shaifer come out. It is maybe 8+ or 9. I also have a super 90 ft crack to the left of the arete that angles over at the top to share the same anchors as the arete, that is almost ready, that I am guessing will be an easy 10. There may be a 3 or 4 pitch moderate trad route to the right of the chimney that I need to rap down to check. It winds around a few trees, but otherwise looks really good from the ground.

The Premarital Wall is just a few minutes past the arete and the Beanstalk Wall up a gully, so with all the potential around and only a one hour approach, I think this will be a worthy destination. Now I just have to convince Ward to come out and rescrub his route.  ;D
« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 07:47:32 PM by M_Sprague »
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M_Sprague

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2013, 03:15:55 PM »

for a bigger version go here http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108310262
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frik

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2013, 04:17:42 PM »

Jeesh, that looks like a honest to god real kinda offwidthy thing!
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M_Sprague

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2013, 04:53:04 PM »

Unfortunately it turned out wider than I thought it was, so I had to use more bolts than I had hoped, My #6 wasn't even close to filling it except at the very bottom and that didn't really offer much protection. I got it all nice and clean Sunday and can't wait to lead it as soon as my friends don't bail on my for silly family obligations  :P and Mount Washington. I am thinking of opening a pound in NC for climbers with small children so they can leave them there for the day while they go climbing ;D

I TRed the finger crack around the other side of Bigfoot too. It is not an easy 10. It took me 2 tries and I was making more funny noises and was more pumped than when on the arete. I'm curious to see how it feels on the sharp end.

Here is a very bad picture of the wall with the two finger cracks I am working on now. It is very foreshortened. There is about 70 feet of crack climbing above the bolt at the start.


bigger version
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108310471
« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 05:17:53 PM by M_Sprague »
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JBrochu

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Re: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2013, 05:06:11 PM »

I was impressed with the splitter crack to the left of the corner until I realized it was a skinny tree.  :P
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Re: Bigfoot Was Here 12b - arete @ Green's Cliff
« Reply #14 on: August 27, 2013, 07:56:37 PM »

I was impressed with the splitter crack to the left of the corner until I realized it was a skinny tree.

me too... LOL
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