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new 5.6 at Humphrey's Ledge

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Admin Al:
2 weeks ago I was at Humphrey's with George Hurley doing several routes on the far left side of the Geriatric Walls ands he spotted what looked to be an interesting, albeit moss covered face between 3 Brushes (5.6) and Daddy's Got New Shoes (5.7). I knew that it had been scoped by Judy Perez 2 years before, but since she hadn't gotten back to it I supposed it was fair game for George. In true Hurley adventure route style he led it up through the moss, trending right at the upper headwall and placing gear in the 3 Brushes leftmost crack, finishing at the 3 Brushes anchor. When I followed it, I did quite a lot of cleaning, even stripping off some of the bushes on some of the ledges, and uncovering additional gear placements. I was disappointed that he had to go over to the other route for protection and we discussed adding a bolt or two in the upper headwall so the route would be completely independent. This afternoon I went over there with Joe & Judy Perez and added 2 bolts on the headwall, making it go straight up. It's a nice line and fits in with the adjacent routes. We didn't have a name at the time and it still doesn't. Regardless, I think it's worth doing.

Unnamed Route (5.6) 50'
Directions: The route is located on the far left side of the Geriatric Walls, between 3 Brushes and daddy's Got New Shoes.

Description: This is an nice line that goes straight up a dark face, over a headwall all at a moderate grade.

P 1: Climb the lower face placing a few medium small cams. Clip 2 bolts on the upper headwall and continue a little right to the 2-bolt anchor.

Gear: some small and medium cams and draws

Descent: lower or rappel the route with 1 60m rope.

History: FA - George Hurley & Al Hospers 8/6/2013

ELM:
I KNEW IT!! :o I saw that line a couple seasons ago and it looked interesting. Guess I should have not listened to my partner and had a go at cleaning it. Does it look like it's wet often Al? that was the only thing I couldn't tell was if it was a natural drainage spot.

Admin Al:

--- Quote from: ELM on August 21, 2013, 08:12:56 AM ---I KNEW IT!! :o I saw that line a couple seasons ago and it looked interesting. Guess I should have not listened to my partner and had a go at cleaning it. Does it look like it's wet often Al? that was the only thing I couldn't tell was if it was a natural drainage spot.

--- End quote ---

ELM -

Yeah - if you looked carefully, it definitely looked like it would go, but there were a lot of bushed obscuring the lower part. I do think that the lower part gets fairly wet, but the upper headwall stays dry. When I did it with George I really cleared the dirt & bushes off the ledges and I think it will stay drier. Yesterday I also scraped out some grooves on the ledges that were covered in dirt that are good holds and gear placements. I want to get back over there with a brush soon and clean off the lower part a bit.

It's kind of like 3 Brushes... When I put up Life Of Riley I climbed about 1/2 way up 3 Brushes to traverse over to the ledge above Riley so I could TR it and see if it would go. I could tell that the face of 3 Brushes had stuff there, but I just didn't bother with it. Chris Magness came along and took the bit between his teeth to climb it and clean it. I'm sure several folks had noticed the face between Brushes & Daddy, but it took George to "just do it." [grin]

ELM:
It did look like a good ammount of work to get it ready. Can't wait to give it a try!

Admin Al:
also check out the climb to the left, Daddy's Got New Shoes. it goes up through the moss to the arch, steps left and goes up a nice face. the moss is actually cleaned everywhere you step, hold or place gear.

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