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Author Topic: Echo Roof area Q  (Read 303 times)

perswig

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Echo Roof area Q
« on: August 24, 2013, 10:37:46 PM »

Looking for info on the climb(s?) at the left end of the Echo Roof area.
Troy and I started/finished our day over there today; we usually do a couple pitches to warm up and see if gravity's likely to bitch-slap us and if the answer's "no", we feel safe to go find something harder.
I've never really bothered to figure out all the routes, as they wander all over, go at similar grades and kinda end up ... somewhere.  Which is all that matters, mostly.

However, I could swear that the left-most climbs, just right of Last Tango, had a bolt or two on the upper slab to mitigate the potential groundfall as you're heading to either the way-upper anchor (Reverb?) or that rat's-nest of cord on 4 pins mid-way up.  Looking at J. Handren's book, in addition to Relic/Artifacts/HL/Reverb, I think I've done both Bulletproof and Ladies and Gentlemen at some point? 
Both kinda in here?



But I poked my head out somewhere just right of that shallow upper book today and saw ... diddleysquat for gear, which lead to some traversing way right to that weird anchor in the divot (maybe Holy Land?).  I know I've climbed that part of the upper slab before; I just can't remember if there was the occasional sol'n pocket or maybe today I couldn't see a pin or bolt, or maybe I was on bath salts the last time and didn't do the math before heading out above the really good gear in the first half of those climbs.

Anyhoo, it looked blank to me today, and I'm not quite sure why.  I wasn't far LEFT enough?  Faulty memory?  Ken Nichols has returned to foil our moderate slab dreams?  WTF?

Please advise.
Dale

edit:  wow! that's a sucky pic.  sorry
edit #2:  There's a shiny bolt up and left of the divot anchor, which will get you to the 4-pin lashup on pretty easy ground.  I'm wondering about the slab probably 10-20' left of that area, directly above the lip of those last two climbs.  Thanks.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2013, 10:50:00 PM by perswig »
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DMan

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2013, 11:10:34 PM »

The obvious crack on the left of your photo is Ladies & Gentleman. After the crack ends there are a few easy slab moves leading to a frustrating high step protected by a bolt (crux), then an easier run out slab with a pocket for a cam about 10 feet from the crux move, then 15 more feet to a bolted anchor.

Bulletproof, well, I know the start, boulderly up to a nice pocket, some weird moves then do what ever past where the tree used to be (huge hole filled with water there now), then I'm not really sure where the original line went.

That weird anchor in the little quartz pocket is on Holy Land/Reverb... and drives me nuts. Sorry BW but that is a ridiculous spot for a bolted anchor... stand in the pocket and drill at shoulder height! The rope pulls like crap due to the angle on the rings... but ah... 1st world problems...




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Admin Al

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2013, 06:57:32 AM »

That weird anchor in the little quartz pocket is on Holy Land/Reverb... and drives me nuts. Sorry BW but that is a ridiculous spot for a bolted anchor... stand in the pocket and drill atshoulder height! The rope pulls like crap due to the angle on the rings... but ah... 1st world problems...

Never had a problem with the rop pulling from this anchor, I extend it for tr-ing tho.

There is a pretty good topo here


« Last Edit: August 25, 2013, 07:03:40 AM by Admin Al »
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perswig

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2013, 09:03:25 AM »

Ah, thanks.  From Dave's description and Al's topo from the routes section (never thought to look at those before - typical dude, read the directions when all else fails), I was climbing most of Bulletproof but in my head expected to see the finish of Ladies.  The would put us too far right to see the Ladies gear and anchor.

Well, not that I'm in favor of adding bolts all over creation, but from the start of BP to the 4-pin rig is a pretty nice plumb/direct line slightly more difficult than the routes to either side.  The bottom protects pretty well; a single bolt maybe 15' past the last gear would keep it very spicy but not R/X like it is now.  Two would make it safe as houses.  I don't like to TR but those of you who do might consider running up to the pins and trying it out next time you're in the area.

Dale
 
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Jeff

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2013, 01:33:12 PM »

Dave mentions a pocket above the bolt on Ladies & Gentlemen which will take a cam; I remember putting a tri-cam there and being glad to have it 8); Perhaps one of the new BD X4 cams would fit but I remember it as too narrow for anything I had except a tri-cam--of course it's Whitehorse and I always carry them for the solution pockets!!
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strandman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2013, 03:11:33 PM »

i don't remeber to much about Bulletproof except the pocket and then more shallow pockets above to a pin belay
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perswig

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2013, 05:11:53 PM »

Yep, John, that's about all there is, if you go straight up.  I don't think there's any gear there.  Looks like folks might trend right to a bolt and then back toward the pins, which allows you to follow some faint dikes and would bring the grade down a bit from the direct line.

How's the ticker?  Do you have to carry an AED on your harness (or your partners) from now on?
Hope you're feeling better.
Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

strandman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2013, 09:06:18 PM »

Bilateral pacemaker in a few months... no run outs for while
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