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[JoeC]

We did standard route the original way on sunday.  On the 3rd pitch you clip that "bolt".  I wouldnt even trust it for body weight.  Would it be accepted to replace that with a new bolt/hanger?  I know theres a bunch of old hardware on white horse.  Acceptable to replace it?

[Admin Al]

I would say yes...

[DGoguen]

I would say yes...

If one has the experience and competency to do a good job.

[strandman]

Really ? that bolt has not been replaced ?  Is it an off route bolt

[DMan]

Wait, Standard Original 3rd Pitch? What Bolt?

Pitch 1: Launch Pad to Toilet Bowl.

Pitch 2: Toilet Bowl to base of Arch

Pitch 3: Up Arch, gear anchor at "mailbox".

Pitch 4: Continue up Arch to the thread

Pitch 5 Climb up to Lunch Ledge

Pitch 6: Brown Spot.... is this the pitch you are talking about? I always opt for the direct finish at 5.7 with less rope drag....

[DMan]

And if you are talking about the bolt above the toilet bowl, I wouldn't bother. The easiest line to the Crystal Pocket is to not climb straight up to that bolt, but to trend left to a nice crack, then up to the cool thread/layback crack... a little easier than going straight to that old bolt with the homemade hanger.... if that is the bolt we are talking about...

[JoeC]

That is indeed that bolt
And we did do standard original.  Up to that bolt then left to some flakes then to the ledge

[DMan]

That is indeed that bolt
And we did do standard original.  Up to that bolt then left to some flakes then to the ledge

Since that is the case I wouldn’t bother, it is easier and more natural to head left to an out of view crack that takes a bomber .75 cam before moving more left to the ledge... the bolt is out of the way (and higher) if heading to the ledge below the arch. I’ve done both dozens of times and I never go to the bolt even if I am heading for the Crystal Pocket... it really isn’t in a good or needed spot for either variation...

[JoeC]

Ah ok.  I saw the way left.  I wasnt leading that pitch...  It does look like it makes more sense to go more left, but in any case, still fun.

[DMan]

Yup... IMO the Crystal Pocket variation is way better than the Arch... the Arch just isn’t steep enough to really need to use the crack (except for pro)... and the CP doesn’t require an extra belay to get to Lunch Ledge... YMMV but I always go CP unless it is crowded and no one is on the arch...

Fun Fact, you can link the base of the Arch to the Thread with a 60m IF you only place a few pieces in the arch, then leave the arch at the Mailbox and traverse right, right, right, coming in just above the CP variation... then up to the Thread.... it is a real rope stretcher with long 5.3 runouts, but you can eliminate the awkward Mailbox belay this way and get the better part of the arch... a 70m here makes life easy... but I always do it with a 60...

[JoeC]

Yea.  I want to do the crystal pocket next time.  I hated the mail box belay.

[lucky luke]

YMMV but I always go CP unless it is crowded and no one is on the arch...

or you can go straight right from the toilet bowl to the second anchor of slab direct. No protection, but easy slab and bolts. Slab direct, althought easier than sliding board,  it is fun too. and there is an other variation just on the right of slab direct in 5.8. There is two bolts on fifty meters.

[Jeff]

The 5.8 Luke mentions is the S. Buttress of Wankers Wall, (5.8+R ) in Websters 3rd edition, described as the easiest route on the Wave ; Luke is correct that it is VERY run out--one bolt just before the crux, then another a LONG way above (60-80 feet); the climbing gets progressively easier as your run out lengthens, but NEVER so easy that you'll really relax  on your first visit. It is good climbing, but best to be forewarned-- serious road rash potential

[strandman]

good training

[lucky luke]

--one bolt just before the crux, then another a LONG way above (60-80 feet);

Oups, it is where was the second bolt!!!

I didn't clip it.