NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down

Author Topic: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?  (Read 663 times)

M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1459
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2013, 08:26:37 PM »

I usually try to be diplomatic, but sometimes a loud "Hey moron..." cuts through the fog better and then you can follow it up with a laugh and friendly explanation. You have to be prepared for any kind of reaction though. With some big psychotic looking dude in the middle of a bad trip (ran into that at the New) I would probably walk away and let natural selection take its course.
Logged
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1239
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2013, 10:35:36 PM »

Most felt it was better to speak up, than keep quiet.

speak up...wasn't it what I am doing?

Even if I agree completely with the idea of "speak up". No I always agree with that idea.

In fact, I hate the answer gave by the people. "we most respect gravity man!"  "it is hard to protect with pro, but if you can't clip a bolt...stay close to the ground." did the kid will be proud to climb like there father?...would have been more appropriate.

Or an analysis as we had before in north American mountaineering: here to brother wanting to challenge each other to prove that they are good.

or insult:

I found that they are not one good approach to "speak up", but we have too.

(n.b.: climbing is so dangerous, you don't gain any thing after, take a course and don't climb...is not an option)     

Logged

DMan

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3905
    • My Guiding Blog
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2013, 11:02:29 PM »

Most felt it was better to speak up, than keep quiet.

speak up...wasn't it what I am doing?
...

 take a course and don't climb...is not an option)   

No, you are ranting incoherently.

How about take a course and climb your ass off with lots of cool partners? Works for many...
Logged

JakeDatc

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 704
  • "Don't worry, this won't hurt me a bit"
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #18 on: August 23, 2013, 12:15:01 AM »

If you had some video, it could have been an internet sensation.  :P It might be worth following a guy like that around with a GoPro

guy sounds more like the folks who are wearing GoPro's and doing stupid shit  then posting it online...  maybe it'll turn up. 

 
Logged
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1239
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #19 on: August 23, 2013, 10:11:01 AM »

How about take a course and climb your ass off with lots of cool partners? Works for many...

look my thread in trad climbing,,,it is what i suggest.

take a course to be autonomous is very important. A course to be dependant of a sign telling you when there is avalanche or not is not important at all
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4162
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #20 on: August 23, 2013, 10:19:03 AM »

I have climbed in logan canyon..suprising there are not more deaths.

An aside, many years ago i was questioned by a "well known local" at the Quarries, i had been climbing about 3-4 years and he offered advice about 'grinding down your shoes"  ?!
Being young and... My reply was  " can you do this climb ?..Didn't think so..shut the fuck up"
Logged

pappy

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 258
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #21 on: August 23, 2013, 12:20:15 PM »

Two kids from CO show up at T-Wall one day talking smack about how they are leading  .12 in the gym and .11+ at Table Mt, and btw, where are the bolted climbs? Had to tell'm, 'dudes, you are SOL. This is T-wall. You need a rack.' So they drive into Chattanooga, whip out daddy's AmEx, and buy one. All cams, no nuts. Then they're back and roping up below 'Golden Locks', a mega classic 5.8+ steep, splitter hand crack. To be fair to these guys, Golden Locks is in the latest rag as a notorious sandbag. That's a little overboard, but the start really is .9, and the rest burly for the grade. Anyway, the leader barely pulls through the start and then thrashes the rest the way up with much huffing and puffing and a considerable lack of grace. We figured he was going to test his new gear for sure, but he made it clean, so to speak. His brother, however, can't pull the start, and judging from the shouting from above the leader is semi-freaked and clueless about how he's going to get down, so I say, 'fuck it, I'll clean it for you.'

As impossible as it is to imagine for a deep hand crack in bullet rock, not a single one of the cams this guy has placed would have held a fall. When I get to the top I find the leader anchored to a dead pine sapling about 2" in diameter and a cam shoved under a detached microwave sized block. If I had thought I might have fallen I would have been seriously pissed. As it was, I kept my voice even and said 'we're going to go over to this other tree and rig a rappel. When we get down, you and your brother really need to think about learning what you're doing before you get killed, or worse, get me or someone else killed.' He didn't say anything but gave me a look like a whipped dog, resentment and all. They did leave though. Do wonder how daddy liked the AmEx bill.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2013, 01:46:18 PM by pappy »
Logged

neiceclimber

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 308
Re: Was I wrong in cautioning a noob?
« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2013, 12:34:58 PM »

You have to love the bro-brahs from the 'rado. Once in Bolivia camping  just shy of 15,000ft a 'rado and his girlfriend came charging into base camp all fired up to get out and climb. The dude walked from tent to tent about how we were wasting time acclimating and should get going. I specifically remember one key statement "guys I'm from CO, and totally used to altitude, Bolivias going to be a piece of cake." That night he went to sleep, when he woke he had AMS. Later that day a guided group helped him limp back to La Paz. His chick stayed and started climbing with a solo Italian. He mentioned she didn't know anything about climbing, but that it was fun moving slowly and getting to bivvy together.

A few weeks ago I got to the top of a climb only to notice the guys a few climbs over we're about to TR from one bolt and a quick draw. I gave them a bit of a lesson on anchors and threw another draw into the anchor. Later in the day I bumped into them again on a pretty easy and straight forward crack. The leader just kicked out a nut placement and said " see what I mean, cams are way safer, nuts always walk out of cracks." WTF.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.164 seconds with 23 queries.