Author Topic: wedging factor  (Read 502 times)

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 461
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #15 on: August 06, 2014, 06:47:27 PM »
"Without saying the answer, what is the wedging factor?"

Well that's pretty easy LL.  The "wedging factor" is the way most people on this site regard you- you drive a wedge into most every conversation.

So how'd I do? I answered a stupid question- do I win a stupid prize? C'mon now.

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1535
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #16 on: August 06, 2014, 09:11:36 PM »
So how'd I do? I answered a stupid question- do I win a stupid prize? C'mon now.

as All said: you can ignore my thread. I was thinking of few people that I like to ignore what I am saying. Maybe some other people will be intrigue and will want to understand the principle of nuts and cam and finally will bring some interesting comment that will lead to more safety.

For example, when you place a tricam in an horizontal crack, there is a side where the point most be direct. Knowing the wedging factor, you can understand where is the weaker side and gave more surface on that side to avoid to brake the rock. It happen to me in a ground fall that the rock blow in the impact.

Your intervention is to denigrate me. It is not about climbing principle. You need to denigrate for what reason? There is still a lot of people who like trad and they want to be safe. When you denigrate me, they don't read the references or they don't think about what it was said. As they don't know why a stopper is safe and why it is not...they are scare and they prefer to climb on bolt 
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 10:10:22 PM by lucky luke »

Offline Lucky Lucy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 9
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #17 on: August 06, 2014, 10:23:57 PM »

some other people will be intrigue and will want to understand the principle of nuts and finally will bring some comment that will lead to more safety.


Lucky Luke, All you need is a good hooker and she will be able to teach you all about your nuts and using them safely. :-*
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 10:30:47 PM by Lucky Lucy »

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 461
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #18 on: August 07, 2014, 07:22:41 AM »
So how'd I do? I answered a stupid question- do I win a stupid prize? C'mon now.

as All said: you can ignore my thread. I was thinking of few people that I like to ignore what I am saying. Maybe some other people will be intrigue and will want to understand the principle of nuts and cam and finally will bring some interesting comment that will lead to more safety.

For example, when you place a tricam in an horizontal crack, there is a side where the point most be direct. Knowing the wedging factor, you can understand where is the weaker side and gave more surface on that side to avoid to brake the rock. It happen to me in a ground fall that the rock blow in the impact.

Your intervention is to denigrate me. It is not about climbing principle. You need to denigrate for what reason? There is still a lot of people who like trad and they want to be safe. When you denigrate me, they don't read the references or they don't think about what it was said. As they don't know why a stopper is safe and why it is not...they are scare and they prefer to climb on bolt

As Steve A. has attempted to explain to you: some people have "mechanical" minds and placing gear is natural to them. Others, that don't, aren't likely to ever "get it".

Your continual never ending blather- do you honestly think anyone "learns" the slightest tidbit of useful information from you? You over analyze everything you speak of. When are you gonna "get it" and stop blathering?

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1535
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #19 on: August 07, 2014, 08:30:29 AM »
As Steve A. has attempted to explain to you: some people have "mechanical" minds and placing gear is natural to them. Others, that don't, aren't likely to ever "get it".

I know what Steve said and I am sure that he was a good teacher. Some can be natural, but that doesn't means that they can't learn. He probably have student who graduate because they put a lot of work on it.

I think that Adolf Hitler burns book because they think that at the aryuan master race. It is like in a climb, some are better at slab an other at face or over hanging. That doesn't means that you can't improve or that you have to use bolt.

For a child, who fall in 5.7 and, by trying and trying and listening and reading, was able to climb 5.10...with no mechanical minds... on chock, it is a example that if he work as hard in mathematique than he tried in climbing: he can succeed. It is the reason why climbing most be in school. In an exam, you have to wait to know that you made a mistake. In climbing, it is immediately. So a child can understand why it is important to study and that he can have more difficulty than an other, but be able to do the same job with the same money.

Knowing your limits and when to bail, being honest on our limits and humble, climbing for fun...and working hard to improve our skill is more than an example to any   

Offline JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1070
  • Doing God's work
Re: wedging factor
« Reply #20 on: August 07, 2014, 03:26:54 PM »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck