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Author Topic: Echo Roof area Q  (Read 693 times)

perswig

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Echo Roof area Q
« on: August 24, 2013, 10:37:46 PM »

Looking for info on the climb(s?) at the left end of the Echo Roof area.
Troy and I started/finished our day over there today; we usually do a couple pitches to warm up and see if gravity's likely to bitch-slap us and if the answer's "no", we feel safe to go find something harder.
I've never really bothered to figure out all the routes, as they wander all over, go at similar grades and kinda end up ... somewhere.  Which is all that matters, mostly.

However, I could swear that the left-most climbs, just right of Last Tango, had a bolt or two on the upper slab to mitigate the potential groundfall as you're heading to either the way-upper anchor (Reverb?) or that rat's-nest of cord on 4 pins mid-way up.  Looking at J. Handren's book, in addition to Relic/Artifacts/HL/Reverb, I think I've done both Bulletproof and Ladies and Gentlemen at some point? 
Both kinda in here?



But I poked my head out somewhere just right of that shallow upper book today and saw ... diddleysquat for gear, which lead to some traversing way right to that weird anchor in the divot (maybe Holy Land?).  I know I've climbed that part of the upper slab before; I just can't remember if there was the occasional sol'n pocket or maybe today I couldn't see a pin or bolt, or maybe I was on bath salts the last time and didn't do the math before heading out above the really good gear in the first half of those climbs.

Anyhoo, it looked blank to me today, and I'm not quite sure why.  I wasn't far LEFT enough?  Faulty memory?  Ken Nichols has returned to foil our moderate slab dreams?  WTF?

Please advise.
Dale

edit:  wow! that's a sucky pic.  sorry
edit #2:  There's a shiny bolt up and left of the divot anchor, which will get you to the 4-pin lashup on pretty easy ground.  I'm wondering about the slab probably 10-20' left of that area, directly above the lip of those last two climbs.  Thanks.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2013, 10:50:00 PM by perswig »
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DLottmann

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2013, 11:10:34 PM »

The obvious crack on the left of your photo is Ladies & Gentleman. After the crack ends there are a few easy slab moves leading to a frustrating high step protected by a bolt (crux), then an easier run out slab with a pocket for a cam about 10 feet from the crux move, then 15 more feet to a bolted anchor.

Bulletproof, well, I know the start, boulderly up to a nice pocket, some weird moves then do what ever past where the tree used to be (huge hole filled with water there now), then I'm not really sure where the original line went.

That weird anchor in the little quartz pocket is on Holy Land/Reverb... and drives me nuts. Sorry BW but that is a ridiculous spot for a bolted anchor... stand in the pocket and drill at shoulder height! The rope pulls like crap due to the angle on the rings... but ah... 1st world problems...




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Admin Al

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2013, 06:57:32 AM »

That weird anchor in the little quartz pocket is on Holy Land/Reverb... and drives me nuts. Sorry BW but that is a ridiculous spot for a bolted anchor... stand in the pocket and drill atshoulder height! The rope pulls like crap due to the angle on the rings... but ah... 1st world problems...

Never had a problem with the rop pulling from this anchor, I extend it for tr-ing tho.

There is a pretty good topo here


« Last Edit: August 25, 2013, 07:03:40 AM by Admin Al »
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perswig

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2013, 09:03:25 AM »

Ah, thanks.  From Dave's description and Al's topo from the routes section (never thought to look at those before - typical dude, read the directions when all else fails), I was climbing most of Bulletproof but in my head expected to see the finish of Ladies.  The would put us too far right to see the Ladies gear and anchor.

Well, not that I'm in favor of adding bolts all over creation, but from the start of BP to the 4-pin rig is a pretty nice plumb/direct line slightly more difficult than the routes to either side.  The bottom protects pretty well; a single bolt maybe 15' past the last gear would keep it very spicy but not R/X like it is now.  Two would make it safe as houses.  I don't like to TR but those of you who do might consider running up to the pins and trying it out next time you're in the area.

Dale
 
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Jeff

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2013, 01:33:12 PM »

Dave mentions a pocket above the bolt on Ladies & Gentlemen which will take a cam; I remember putting a tri-cam there and being glad to have it 8); Perhaps one of the new BD X4 cams would fit but I remember it as too narrow for anything I had except a tri-cam--of course it's Whitehorse and I always carry them for the solution pockets!!
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strandman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2013, 03:11:33 PM »

i don't remeber to much about Bulletproof except the pocket and then more shallow pockets above to a pin belay
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perswig

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2013, 05:11:53 PM »

Yep, John, that's about all there is, if you go straight up.  I don't think there's any gear there.  Looks like folks might trend right to a bolt and then back toward the pins, which allows you to follow some faint dikes and would bring the grade down a bit from the direct line.

How's the ticker?  Do you have to carry an AED on your harness (or your partners) from now on?
Hope you're feeling better.
Dale
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strandman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2013, 09:06:18 PM »

Bilateral pacemaker in a few months... no run outs for while
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plytheman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2014, 05:57:17 PM »

Bumping because I'm awful at route-finding and still fairly confused after reading all this, but I'm guessing I started on Holy Land and veered to Bulletproof?

I was out here yesterday and tried to climb Relic Hunter but ended up on Holy Land because that was the only pin ~15 ft up that I saw. I headed up the shallow depression up to the pin, then went more or less up and left following flakes. I stayed to the right of the cesspool where apparently a tree used to be, then pulled up over the bulge to some slab. Climbed maybe ten feet, found a bolt to clip, then kept going up. At one point I veered right to a pin because I was starting to feel run out and figured some rope drag would be better than sliding on my butt 20 feet. After that I worked my way left to the tat on 4 pins. I had a blast on the climb and loved every part of it until I got close to the tat and saw some sun-baked cord and a locker taped shut.

As I was lowering down from there I saw a two-bolt anchor down and left which I assumed was for Ladies and Gentlemen, and down and to the right I saw the anchor which I assumed (and used) for Echo (though now that I look at it maybe it was the anchor for Ancient/Relic). Never saw the proper anchor for Holy land on my way down then or the second time up when I cleaned the anchor. Having apparently blown right past the anchor explains why I ran out of rope about 20 feet off the deck as well on my shortened rope.

Can anyone tell me where, in relation to the tree-hole pool, the proper anchor for Holy Land is? Also, still being a newb, was it sketchy of me to trust those four pins to TR on then lower off of?
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strandman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2014, 06:57:09 PM »

you gotta ask Al about this one....I HOPE the original pins on Bulletproof aren't still there..32 years later  :o
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Echo

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2014, 08:53:30 PM »

Can anyone tell me where, in relation to the tree-hole pool, the proper anchor for Holy Land is?

This is a hard anchor to spot because Brad placed it inside a weird quartz pocket. It has always frustrated me a little bit as it would be much better just above the pocket where 1) you can see it, and 2) you don't need to girth hitch a rap ring to make a TR anchor (otherwise biner' loaded on edge). Doesn't bother me enough to ask if he would mind if I moved it up though...

Anyways to find it, and the best way to climb Holy Land IMO...

Don't go for the pin, it's easier to stay a bit left... a few friction moves lead to good holds... I usually clip the bolt as my first piece... then straight to a great cam placement in that right-to-left arching crack, pull over a small step (hidden pocket can make it easy), friction up to a very small right facing cornish thing (small TCU or Alien potential), before making one more step up to clip the hidden anchor...

Sounds like you over shot it a bit.

IMO Holy Land is great in approach shoes once you know the route... no need for climbing shoes. If you tag a 2nd rope you can lower off the anchor about 10 feet then swing over to the Relic Hunter anchor... quick way to set up two TR's, I do this a lot when guiding a small group.

I just looked at the old topo from this site, I have never seen the 2nd pin shown on this topo on Holy Land... I think I stay a bit to the right of where it might be and get a bomber cam...

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dpen

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2014, 04:45:24 PM »

Quote
Can anyone tell me where, in relation to the tree-hole pool, the proper anchor for Holy Land is?

Basically straight up from the first pin, although the routes zig zags a bit in between.

I climbed it last weekend with the kids and I did not see the second pin either, although I think I've used it in the past.   Got two good cams though.   Also saw a solution pocket but didn't have the right size tricam.
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plytheman

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2014, 08:02:11 AM »

Yeah, I definitely veered into Bulletproof then and was too far left to see the anchors. Fun spot though, I'll have to pay closer attention next time I go to try and make a few pitches out of it. I could use the practice with getting tricams into those pockets too! Thanks for the help!
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Admin Al

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Re: Echo Roof area Q
« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2014, 09:21:55 PM »

The pin you are talking about was removed by some asshole about 3 years ago! Sorry bout that. I guide in this area several times a season, did it 2 weeks ago in fact.

I climb the shallow groove to just right of the pin that's under the flake. Then  easily step left, clip the pin and climb to the bolt. Then I continue straight up and just right of the right facing arch to the anchor in the pocket, which is the Holy Land anchor. If desired/needed I then lower a bit and swing right and climb up past some solution pockets to the anchor on the right, which is the Relic anchor.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2014, 09:24:03 PM by Admin Al »
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Al Hospers
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