Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2013

[DLottmann]

Just received this in the mail last week and finished it over the weekend... I really think this book is invaluable to keeping me on my toes and learning from others mistakes. It is a sobering read to hear how many people died last year enjoying the sport that has defined me for so long. This years "Know The Ropes" section was on lowering (Last year's was Rappelling).

Within these two skills we see the vast majority of major accidents and deaths... so many it's really sad to think of how many lives have been effected by us making such preventable errors.

If you haven't read this book consider picking one up. This book alone is worth the cost of AAC membership in my opinion.

[lucky luke]

There is two way to read accident in north America: One is to read it from the beginning to the end like a book and the other is to read about a technique, like rap, and to read only the accident where there is a question of rap. You will see that each year, the situation of an accident is very similar, just the context are different.

As you train, you will have to train in rough ground, with a guide, an experience leader or alone where you can control the environment. For example, it is possible to fix an uneven rope in a gym and late people rap from that with some thing at the bottom to prevent injury. If you have a fall of ten feet, you will have an idea of the problem. If you ask to the climber to stop at one feet from the bottom and hang there until the person fall, it will be a good practice...in a gym...to prevent accident.

[Admin Al]

Seemed to me that all of the accidents here in the Whites last season were not reported. I couldn't tell if the one on Central was the Wounded Warrior one or not, it was pretty vague.

[DLottmann]

Seemed to me that all of the accidents here in the Whites last season were not reported. I couldn't tell if the one on Central was the Wounded Warrior one or not, it was pretty vague.

It wasn't unfortunately... our region isn't represented in ANAM very accurately IMO, which is crazy considering the editor lives in NH!

[Admin Al]

That's because the MRS is responsible now for sending in the info!

[DLottmann]

That's because the MRS is responsible now for sending in the info!

I would think anything reported on MWAC could easily be picked up by ANAM considering half of the reported incidents in the book are from Supertopo threads.

http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/search-rescue/2012-2013-summaries/01-17-2013-avalanche-accident-in-central-gully/

It's up to all climbers, guides, MRS members, etc to report accidents to ANAM. Since the USFS oversees S&R in that area during the winter it would be best if they reported directly.

[darwined]

What's up with the rope burn in the Gunks?  Hardly seems worthy of mention to me. 

[lucky luke]

I am not sure, but do they need the authorization of the victim to write the story in the book? 

As many use the accident to insult the victim, I can understand that we lost the authorization of many people.

[SA]

I'm guessing there are many more climbing accidents than those that get reported,---2-3 times as many or more.

I've been hurt multiple times, and never reported any of them, and I know others who got hurt, and never reported their accidents as well. Hell, if all accidents were reported, I bet the little thin book would be as thick as the AAJ.

[DLottmann]

I'm guessing there are many more climbing accidents than those that get reported,---2-3 times as many or more.

I've been hurt multiple times, and never reported any of them, and I know others who got hurt, and never reported their accidents as well. Hell, if all accidents were reported, I bet the little thin book would be as thick as the AAJ.

No doubt!

Luke, I disagree, I think most people learn from these accidents without "insulting" the victim... especially those who are willing to share their mistakes personally. And no, the publisher does not need "authorization" or permission from the victims if they don't use their real names... in fact they could use real names just like the nightly news if they wanted but they keep people anonymous who request it out of respect.

[DGoguen]

I've been hurt multiple times, and never reported any of them, and I know others who got hurt, and never reported their accidents as well.

Absolutely. It's a tough pill to swallow. Most climbers are fairly private individuals who don't want to be scrutinized, particularly by internet nut jobs nowadays , even if it adds to the overall education base, while the wounds are still fresh.
How many times do you need to read about or even practice rapping off the end of the rope to realize it's not cool.

[strandman]

If all the "accidents " were reported, it would be 3 volumes. How many times can you say -tie a knot in the end of the rope  or pay attention belaying

[Pete Jackson]

Seemed to me that all of the accidents here in the Whites last season were not reported. I couldn't tell if the one on Central was the Wounded Warrior one or not, it was pretty vague.

The single incident reported out of Rumney was sufficiently self-congratulatory so as to be far from enlightening. There was some talk about the RCA appointing a liaison to report incidents from this neck of the woods in conjunction with local Fire and Rescue. It's not in place yet but should be by the end of the year. Even still, the incidents have for years seemed very abridged. To me, it's the data in the back of the book that is telling. While certainly incomplete, it probably provides fairly representative data.

From what I understand, authorization from the victim isn't required to print the story, but there has to be someone willing to write up the facts and submit them.

[lucky luke]

Hell, if all accidents were reported, I bet the little thin book would be as thick as the AAJ.

I wrote some where in obscure bottom of a page that not all the accident are report in ANAM, but only the more characteristic and they try to gave different situation to always say the same rules of safety, but differently. Making the story more interesting to read.

For example, if there is three accident with uneven rope, they will just wrote the "better", if an accident can be better, the better accident to protect the climber. if there is an accident similar the year before, they will take the second best story. In that way, they covert all kind of accident without diluting the knowledge