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Author Topic: What's New England's Best Sandbag?  (Read 934 times)

darwined

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What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« on: September 09, 2013, 08:08:59 PM »

Let's hear it! 
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strandman

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2013, 08:59:56 PM »

Well it USED to be budapest on cathedral  originally 10+  ...........now 11D
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lucky luke

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2013, 09:35:33 PM »

Let's hear it!

For me, the 5.5 at the top of canon (lake view, consolation prize and the other all finish in the diedra). I can admit that, with rigid booth and when you take time to push at the good place...it is a 5.5, but I always did it harder.
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slink

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2013, 10:28:38 PM »

Luke I think that may be the biggest sandbag in the country. It has never felt close to 5.5
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DMan

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2013, 11:34:19 PM »

Let's hear it!

For me, the 5.5 at the top of canon (lake view, consolation prize and the other all finish in the diedra). I can admit that, with rigid booth and when you take time to push at the good place...it is a 5.5, but I always did it harder.

Love that move! And the guidebook described it in French... how ironic.

"monter le chevalĒ

Iíld say itís 5.6ish... I climb it much like the crux of Thin Air but facing the opposite way... I havenít done that route in years, gotta get back up there...

Oh, and on topic.... I donít know but I always thought Chicken Delight was pretty damn hard for 5.9.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2013, 07:14:46 AM »

how about that 10a move on accross the universe?
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darwined

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2013, 07:18:37 AM »

Yep.


I had a fairly embarrassing outing on VH-1 at Echo one time.  Didn't feel like a .7 to me.

Also, what about the first few moves into the crack on the last pitch of Inferno?
« Last Edit: September 10, 2013, 07:20:48 AM by darwined »
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xcrag_corex

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2013, 08:03:18 AM »

Stuff at echo does seem a little stiff. I disagree with the final pitch of inferno. I felt it was all there...  As far as sandbags go.... Add a number grade to the majority of the cracks at Pawtuckaway.
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SA

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2013, 08:33:20 AM »

Carey Corner at Ragged, is considered a sandbag.

Brown's Fist-Direct- If you don't cheat, and just climb the crack thru the roof, is probably 5.11, or +. The original Webster's guide rated it 5.9+; what a joke! Don't know what Handren's guidebook rates it.
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DMan

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2013, 08:50:59 AM »

Also, what about the first few moves into the crack on the last pitch of Inferno?

Awkward, but not hard for 5.8... just so awkward...

how about that 10a move on accross the universe?

Oh ya good one!
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frik

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2013, 09:00:11 AM »

"Brown Spot" pitch on Standard
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WharfRat

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2013, 09:28:03 AM »

Idk, sure the 10a slab is sandbagged but maybe if you have the beta. The 10b to the left of mandrill and the 10a to the right are clearly not sandbagged. I would have a hard time calling them anything more that 5.9. It's a great little Craig but a weird one grades wise for the area imop? Other than he real hard climbs I would say the rating are on the mellow side.


Stuff at echo does seem a little stiff. I disagree with the final pitch of inferno. I felt it was all there...  As far as sandbags go.... Add a number grade to the majority of the cracks at Pawtuckaway.
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JBrochu

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2013, 09:32:56 AM »

Pine Tree Eliminate and I also second VH1 at Echo. (But feel like most of the other easy/moderates I've done at Echo are reasonably graded.)

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kenreville

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #13 on: September 10, 2013, 09:49:19 AM »

The Adirondacks are loaded with sandbags.....

Roaches on the Wall at the Cascade Chimney Cliff is a classic sandbag.

5.10 my ass.
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frik

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Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #14 on: September 10, 2013, 11:13:35 AM »

Daks are not in New England.
Doesn't count!
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