Author Topic: What's New England's Best Sandbag?  (Read 1548 times)

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 459
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #15 on: September 10, 2013, 11:19:22 AM »
Technically you're right.

However, close enough to count IMO.

Offline cjdrover

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #16 on: September 10, 2013, 11:51:56 AM »
I'll go ahead and say it - the first few feet of Child's Play at the North End are almost comical at 5.5. I generally suggest to new leaders that they start on Kiddy Crack at 5.7, as it seems quite a bit easier!

I won't even start about Recluse.

The OW variations at the top of Diedre should be re-graded simply "5.cruel".

darwined

  • Guest
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #17 on: September 10, 2013, 12:23:32 PM »
"Brown Spot" pitch on Standard

I lowered a rope to a guy, from CO, who tried to solo this. He said he was headed over to IME "to give them a piece of his mind for suggesting this as a fine solo"

Haha

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 599
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #18 on: September 10, 2013, 12:33:00 PM »
Let's hear it!

For me, the 5.5 at the top of canon (lake view, consolation prize and the other all finish in the diedra). I can admit that, with rigid booth and when you take time to push at the good place...it is a 5.5, but I always did it harder.

I remember waiting while some old guy tried to follow his son on it and fell like 50 times.  I eventually went up and had him stand on my back, then step into a crap sling around the flake to get over it.  He was so tired that he couldn't do a pull up with weight off, and barely made it even with the aid. 

Didn't somebody die there because he couldn't get over that spot?   

That one is especially bad because you have to climb "5.5" to get there and then you get that move which is at the top of canon and clearly harder than the preceding 5.5.

I always thought that Wedge at 5.6 was the ultimate sandbag; it was described in Mountain Magazine as "the hardest 5.6 move in the world."  I think it is 5.9 now but not when I did it!

 

Offline JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1069
  • Doing God's work
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #19 on: September 10, 2013, 12:40:39 PM »
Let's hear it!

For me, the 5.5 at the top of canon (lake view, consolation prize and the other all finish in the diedra). I can admit that, with rigid booth and when you take time to push at the good place...it is a 5.5, but I always did it harder.

I remember waiting while some old guy tried to follow his son on it and fell like 50 times.  I eventually went up and had him stand on my back, then step into a crap sling around the flake to get over it.  He was so tired that he couldn't do a pull up with weight off, and barely made it even with the aid. 

Didn't somebody die there because he couldn't get over that spot?   

That one is especially bad because you have to climb "5.5" to get there and then you get that move which is at the top of canon and clearly harder than the preceding 5.5.

I always thought that Wedge at 5.6 was the ultimate sandbag; it was described in Mountain Magazine as "the hardest 5.6 move in the world."  I think it is 5.9 now but not when I did it!

Wedge is a 5.9 now?

Regarding the Horse Flake -- never heard of anyone dying, but I know sometime around 1998 a party spent the night on the slab just below it.

I took a new climber on Lakeview once and he couldn't second the Horse Flake even with all the secret beta. Eventually I lowered him the other side of the rope with loops tied into it because a thunderstorm was approaching.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 599
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #20 on: September 10, 2013, 12:44:50 PM »
Let's hear it!

For me, the 5.5 at the top of canon (lake view, consolation prize and the other all finish in the diedra). I can admit that, with rigid booth and when you take time to push at the good place...it is a 5.5, but I always did it harder.

I remember waiting while some old guy tried to follow his son on it and fell like 50 times.  I eventually went up and had him stand on my back, then step into a crap sling around the flake to get over it.  He was so tired that he couldn't do a pull up with weight off, and barely made it even with the aid. 

Didn't somebody die there because he couldn't get over that spot?   

That one is especially bad because you have to climb "5.5" to get there and then you get that move which is at the top of canon and clearly harder than the preceding 5.5.

I always thought that Wedge at 5.6 was the ultimate sandbag; it was described in Mountain Magazine as "the hardest 5.6 move in the world."  I think it is 5.9 now but not when I did it!

Wedge is a 5.9 now?



Not the commonly used finish on Dike Route, the direct finish through the overlap which was how it was written up in the Cote guide I believe.

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 599
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #21 on: September 10, 2013, 12:48:47 PM »
I'll go ahead and say it - the first few feet of Child's Play at the North End are almost comical at 5.5. I generally suggest to new leaders that they start on Kiddy Crack at 5.7, as it seems quite a bit easier!

I won't even start about Recluse.



Recluse was 5.9+ the first time I tried it.   And I remember on sight soloing Child's Play right after smoking a big....cigarette.  I thought that the start was really hard for 5.5. and that it would be easy above.  I was wrong.  Sometimes you make a dumb move and get lucky. 
« Last Edit: September 10, 2013, 01:02:31 PM by eyebolter »

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1523
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #22 on: September 10, 2013, 01:49:36 PM »
I always thought that Wedge at 5.6 was the ultimate sandbag; it was described in Mountain Magazine as "the hardest 5.6 move in the world."  I think it is 5.9 now but not when I did it!

Wedge is a nice 5.6, particularly when you place the pro, a tricam, right on the hold you have to take to do the move. Variation to the right is a way easier, but 5.9. I did the slab run out when it was wet.  The last move of pitch four or five of sea of hole, that nobody did, is, in my opinion, more stressful than wedge and harder to protect. Still every thing is there.

Child play is 5.5 if you begin on the left side of the detach block. Under the 5.10+ crack. It is an easy traverse, not as the fist crack just below or the mantle problem just in the right.

One day, I brought a guy in a fist crack and he tried to do it in layback. That doesn't mean that the route is sandbag, but that the guy didn't know the technique.

Offline cjdrover

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #23 on: September 10, 2013, 03:38:33 PM »

Child play is 5.5 if you begin on the left side of the detach block. Under the 5.10+ crack. It is an easy traverse, not as the fist crack just below or the mantle problem just in the right.


You are thinking of Kiddie Crack 5.7 - Child's Play is farther right.

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 599
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #24 on: September 10, 2013, 04:58:46 PM »

Child play is 5.5 if you begin on the left side of the detach block. Under the 5.10+ crack. It is an easy traverse, not as the fist crack just below or the mantle problem just in the right.


You are thinking of Kiddie Crack 5.7 - Child's Play is farther right.

Ummmm...unless left is right Child's Play is left of K Crack

Online SA

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 341
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2013, 05:49:12 PM »
Funny how perspective changes when you get older.

I soloed Wiessner's Route in Winter, back in 1967, and don't remember much about that awkward flake, just below the final V groove, at the top.

I went up there with my daughter, in June, and while leading that section, I was saying to myself, "why is this so fu---ing hard"

Unfortunately, my daughter had a hell of a time with it. The wind was blowing real hard, and since I'm half deaf, we had a real hard time communicating. I certainly thought it was harder than 5.5, and definitely harder than many 5.7's.

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3855
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2013, 07:12:15 PM »
Inferno, Bombardment and black lung are pretty much the gold standard for NH 5.8

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #27 on: September 10, 2013, 11:03:20 PM »
Childís PLay is one awkward but solid mantle... with a blind foot jam and a great right hand jam allowing you to do it without your knees... took me quite a few ascents to get that move wired... and itís still a grunt... but still 5.5 IMO.

Kiddy Crack is definitely harder.... that thing is so polished it is a SOLID 5.7 layback... but the rest is pretty mellow... nice sequence near the top that I saw one guy botch last summer and hit the ledge OUCH

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3855
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #28 on: September 11, 2013, 06:30:30 AM »
Both clilds play and kiddy crack are slimy buggy short climbs in the woods that should be avoided at all costs......

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7126
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: What's New England's Best Sandbag?
« Reply #29 on: September 11, 2013, 08:48:41 AM »
Both clilds play and kiddy crack are slimy buggy short climbs in the woods that should be avoided at all costs......

+++

I think Zeb would agree with that!
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com