General > Rock Climbing: Trad

am I safe?

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lucky luke:
I was climbing with a beginner and, as I led, he pull on the road and I was closed to fall by is act. I climb with people who want to absolutely try there PAS and don't know a shit on the strength of the anchor, and there is many other way

One day I red a text on how to choose a partner that you met on the road. It was wrote; look to his equipment, if it is brand new shinning, don't climb with him because he didn't used it often. I also heard a lot of climber who do 5.10 in a gym, talking about that part of equipment and the other very and old far will say little and make a lot of hesitation on every thing. For me, as much some one describe the good or bad way to use a grigri, as much I am afraid to climb with him.

Am I safe? what is  important when you choose a partner and how can you know is limit?

Go easy Beefy- he means well.

Pretty farkin funny post anyway.....


Lucky Luke has posted here for years, and he is from Quebec. I assure you his climbing skills are quite good.

Lucky Luke,
     I wouldn't judge a climber by his gear.. People do get new gear and some people are neurotic about replacing worn gear. I would more so go by the way the climber carries them self. Go on an easy route well within your range. Heck make them take the t pitch so you could judge them... But as a side note: they may be judging you also. Communication is key. If you get a bad vibe give them pointers. Some beginners try to jump head first in to impress the more experienced climber. Mentor them.... When you bring their level of safety up that's when you climb safe. If they are showing signs of complication, as the experienced leader it's your responsibility to bring it back to a safe level..... Maybe start with a TR day with a new partner.

Pete Jackson:

--- Quote from: lucky luke on September 10, 2013, 01:59:07 pm ---Am I safe? what is  important when you choose a partner and how can you know is limit?

--- End quote ---

I think it's a really good question that you pose here. It's always going to be a little bit of a roll of the dice to trust another person, especially with your life and safety. I've run a meetup group in Rumney for a couple of years, with a focus on educating outdoor newbies on safe and sustainable practices. I can tell you that while I have been a belayer for a lot of the folks who show up, I've taken a belay from very few of the people I've met this way. 

What is important to me when choosing a partner is whether I believe they are attentive and skilled enough to be trusted with my life. Observing them while they climb with others is one great way I evaluate whether to rope up with them. One can also determine a lot from their behavior on the ground.

Are they organized and efficient with their gear?
Do they seem to have a system or a method they use to pack in and ready their gear?
Do they object or respond with bravado to me wanting to inspect and double check their gear? Better still, do they return the favor?
Are they thoughtful about the climb we're about to undertake, evaluating it for risk? Or are they more concerned with getting pumped up to climb?

I look to determine all of these things in a relatively safe single pitch sport environment before considering multipitch, trad, or alpine with them. Interestingly enough, there are folks whom I'd trust for a sport belay who I'd never go ice climbing with. So clearly it's an analog, sliding scale of comfort.

It's not always practical to observe another climber for a long enough time to determine whether you are comfortable with them before climbing. If everyone acted this way, nobody would be climbing :). However, once I had kids, I decided that I'd rather pass up a day in the hills than go up there with someone I don't trust.


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