General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Book of Solemity

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JoeC:
On the second pitch it i reccomended to go to the last belay on upper refuse if you are climbing with one rope.  Is it acceptable to place gear on upper refuse, and then lower to back clean it so the rope runs more or less straight down to the traverse to protect the second?

Admin Al:
I normally use doubles for The Book, but I did use a 60 meter single once. I led the normal traverse, continued up on the U/R arete and then stepped right to the 2-bolt anchor over on the right. I then lowered an end of the rope to the second and belayed them across the traverse. they unclipped from it and continued up U/R.

HTH

JoeC:

--- Quote from: Admin Al on September 13, 2013, 07:49:36 AM ---I normally use doubles for The Book, but I did use a 60 meter single once. I led the normal traverse, continued up on the U/R arete and then stepped right to the 2-bolt anchor over on the right. I then lowered an end of the rope to the second and belayed them across the traverse. they unclipped from it and continued up U/R.

HTH

--- End quote ---
Was that the top of the 2nd or 3rd pitch of upper?

sneoh:
That single-rope 'trick' is pretty slick, Al.
The first time I did The Book, I followed on a single with no special procedure.  It was a little nervy but not too bad.  As a second, traversing lower is easier?  Did I remmber correctly?
 

DLottmann:
If you feel comfortable soloing 5.5 then I think the easiest method with 1 rope is to just not place any gear after the crux traverse, solo up the UR arete (stay right of the little tree), place a cam in a horizontal then step right to the bolted anchor.... you can easily unclip the horizontal cam placement (BD.75) from the bolted ledge and flip the rope around to perfectly protect the 2nd on the traverse... extend your belay far enough so you can watch your 2nd climb... after they get through the traverse you can re-clip the cam so that they have a bit better protection on UR arete, though it wouldn’t be that bad if you skipped this step...

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