Author Topic: Book of Solemity  (Read 1478 times)

Offline JoeC

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Book of Solemity
« on: September 13, 2013, 07:28:25 AM »
On the second pitch it i reccomended to go to the last belay on upper refuse if you are climbing with one rope.  Is it acceptable to place gear on upper refuse, and then lower to back clean it so the rope runs more or less straight down to the traverse to protect the second?

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2013, 07:49:36 AM »
I normally use doubles for The Book, but I did use a 60 meter single once. I led the normal traverse, continued up on the U/R arete and then stepped right to the 2-bolt anchor over on the right. I then lowered an end of the rope to the second and belayed them across the traverse. they unclipped from it and continued up U/R.

HTH
Al Hospers
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Offline JoeC

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2013, 07:58:06 AM »
I normally use doubles for The Book, but I did use a 60 meter single once. I led the normal traverse, continued up on the U/R arete and then stepped right to the 2-bolt anchor over on the right. I then lowered an end of the rope to the second and belayed them across the traverse. they unclipped from it and continued up U/R.

HTH
Was that the top of the 2nd or 3rd pitch of upper?

Offline sneoh

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2013, 10:17:34 AM »
That single-rope 'trick' is pretty slick, Al.
The first time I did The Book, I followed on a single with no special procedure.  It was a little nervy but not too bad.  As a second, traversing lower is easier?  Did I remmber correctly?
 

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2013, 12:42:59 PM »
If you feel comfortable soloing 5.5 then I think the easiest method with 1 rope is to just not place any gear after the crux traverse, solo up the UR arete (stay right of the little tree), place a cam in a horizontal then step right to the bolted anchor.... you can easily unclip the horizontal cam placement (BD.75) from the bolted ledge and flip the rope around to perfectly protect the 2nd on the traverse... extend your belay far enough so you can watch your 2nd climb... after they get through the traverse you can re-clip the cam so that they have a bit better protection on UR arete, though it wouldn’t be that bad if you skipped this step...

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2013, 03:31:13 PM »
Was that the top of the 2nd or 3rd pitch of upper?

to the right of the normal 3rd pitch anchor on UR.
Al Hospers
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2013, 03:32:28 PM »
If you feel comfortable soloing 5.5 then I think the easiest method with 1 rope is to just not place any gear after the crux traverse, solo up the UR arete (stay right of the little tree), place a cam in a horizontal then step right to the bolted anchor.... you can easily unclip the horizontal cam placement (BD.75) from the bolted ledge and flip the rope around to perfectly protect the 2nd on the traverse... extend your belay far enough so you can watch your 2nd climb... after they get through the traverse you can re-clip the cam so that they have a bit better protection on UR arete, though it wouldn’t be that bad if you skipped this step...

to each their own, but that's not my own tho...
Al Hospers
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2013, 03:34:33 PM »
That single-rope 'trick' is pretty slick, Al.

ThnX, it works...

The first time I did The Book, I followed on a single with no special procedure.  It was a little nervy but not too bad.  As a second, traversing lower is easier?  Did I remmber correctly?

you know, I've never done it, or seen it done, lower. I've only seconded it 1x, the 1st time I ever did it with my friend Yuki, probably in the early 90's.
Al Hospers
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Offline JoeC

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2013, 08:18:52 PM »
Well see how I feel about soloing upper. I probably will place something off the ledge by the tree to get into the cracks.  I didnt find that too easy last time i climbed upper.  Ill use long runners on everything after the traverse.  Hopefully it wont be too bad.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2013, 11:50:46 PM »
Hanging the 2nd out to dry on that pitch is really bad karma! Heard an awfull story about newly weds on their honeymoon. hubby hung her out to dry and she fell on that hard traverse move and shattered her knee...

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2013, 08:47:28 AM »
Well see how I feel about soloing upper. I probably will place something off the ledge by the tree to get into the cracks.
I do it just as DMan described but you can leapfrog gear on upper refuse, removing as you go.
It is important not to leave something around the corner however with a single rope.

Heard an awfull story about newly weds on their honeymoon. hubby hung her out to dry and she fell on that hard traverse move and shattered her knee...
I don't know if they were newlyweds but I witnessed that one. Not cool.
Don't Climb

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2013, 09:46:32 AM »
Hanging the 2nd out to dry on that pitch is really bad karma!

Yup ++++++
Al Hospers
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Offline strandman

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2013, 06:55:51 PM »
Don't worry to much, at the end of the crux, mallery quoted "finger buckets" BITD so your second won't fall off

Offline SA

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2013, 05:41:48 PM »
John,

In all honesty, that final move left on the 2nd pitch would be a bit---ch if you were on the short side, ( that is if you do it the low way), which I think is the most common method.
 In the last few years  I've lost a few inches in height, and I just barely make the move, to the buckets. When leading that route, I have never put a piece in, after the crux. How likely is it that the leader will fall above on 5.5, if they can lead both crux pitches??
Obviously double ropes would solve the problem, if you want to take them. Cote and I went the high way on the 1st ascent, and I was freaking out, climbing in Robbins Boots. Ha, Ha

Offline strandman

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Re: Book of Solemity
« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2013, 07:07:07 PM »
Steve- i was hoping you would chime in  :) Yes height helps as well as confidence doing that move.  You must have been taller way back.. :-*

ps - it seems EDGE is doing OK as can be in flood town