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Author Topic: New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's  (Read 197 times)

BALDY

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New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's
« on: April 22, 2014, 01:09:25 PM »

Carpe Diem, 5.11, 50'

I have been staring at this line for years whenever I walked by.  It is located between "African Queen" (5.9+R) and "Jagen Die Sieben" (5.9+).  Climb on top of the ear-shaped flake using finger sized nuts or cams.  From there, three bolts get you through the business which I would describe as steep and sustained slab climbing. 

FA- 4/20/14 Jonathan Baldassare, Jon Garlough, Lauren Bergeron
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Admin Al

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Re: New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2014, 09:45:46 PM »

so you did it... cool. it's definitely steep & committing. I TR'ed it a bunch but couldn't do it consistently enough to put in the necessary bolts. it looks a lot easier than it is. can I assume you left the anchor I put in?

congrats...
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Al Hospers
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BALDY

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Re: New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2014, 07:33:29 AM »

Hi Al, thanks.  So that is your anchor...yes, we very conveniently used it.  Thanks for putting it in.  Would it be alright with you if we moved it's location up and left onto the headwall?  It would eliminate rope rub on the rock, and a potential swing for a follower after unclipping the last bolt. 

~Jonathan Baldassare
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strandman

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Re: New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2014, 11:07:43 AM »

You better watch out for that garlough character   ::)  He's up to no good..i can tell ! and the Chinette as well..
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Admin Al

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Re: New Route on the "Straight Up" buttress at Humphrey's
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2014, 08:33:12 AM »

Would it be alright with you if we moved it's location up and left onto the headwall?  It would eliminate rope rub on the rock, and a potential swing for a follower after unclipping the last bolt. 

sure...
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Al Hospers
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