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Author Topic: routes on webster slabs  (Read 893 times)

Chinos

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routes on webster slabs
« on: September 16, 2013, 04:07:30 PM »

I recently added a couple more routes to the Mt. Webster Slabs. I know people have been soloing around out here for years but i thought a couple more established routes with anchors would be a great addition to the area. We put two lines on the big slab on the left. Both routes have short sections of 5.7 and the rest is moderate. They are roughly 1000'.

These climbs are approached different than  Lost in the Sun and A Bit Short. To get there follow the same approach as for the route Bore Tide on the big slab in the center. Park in the usual pull out off of 302. Cross the river over a little dam right at the parking lot. Walk in to the wood heading slightly light towards a rock pile. Hook up to the rock filled steam bed and follow it all the way to the base of the center slab. Walk left roughly 75 yards to the base of the left slab. There is a steeper wall just left of the slab.

1. Websters Way  5.7  PG-13
   FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett

Webster's way is a long moderate slab route up the leftmost of the large slabs on Mt. Webster (3,910). The route climbs just left of the route Daniel Webster Highway up the entire cliff.

The route was equipped with ring anchors on the upper pitchs and a few protection bolts were placed on the lead. The climb has great belay ledges and excellent views of Crawford Notch.

This climb offers the occasional gear placement and bolts, but whitehorse style run-outs should be expected. Tricams can come in handy. The crux sections are short and then return to moderate climbing.

All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill

P1: Start at the base of the main toe of slab. Layback the left facing corner with great gear until it ends. Pull over onto the slab and move up to a flake with gear. Angle up and right to an undercling that takes gear. Pull the crux bulge and follow the flakes to the tree anchor on top. 120'
5.7

P2: Bust through some small trees onto the slab and follow it straight up past a couple of gear opportunities to a tree ledge with a tree anchor. 140'
5.3

P3: Climb straight up the slab running it out over a small bulge to a large flake on the left. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor in the gully to the left just below the bushes. 195'
5.5 PG-13

P4: Pop through the bushes and gain a left facing arching corner (pin). Pull out the arch/corner onto the slab and climb past ledges to a bolt. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor on the tree ledge. 205'
5.4 PG-13

P5: An excellent slab pitch! Start up the right edge of the black streak to a bolt. Move up and right to a bolt just over the lip. Continue up to a scoop/footledge (bolt). Finish straight up the slab with a tricam pocket or gun it for the ring anchor on a grassy ledge. 175'
5.5 PG

P6: Climb up and right to gear in a flake. Continue up the slab to the flakes on the headwall above. Climb the hollow sounding flakes or go around to the right to a ring anchor on a ledge to the left. 175' 5.6 PG-13

P7: Climb the grey slab past a bolt and gain a flake with gear next to a grass clump. Angle up and right to the summit ring anchor shared with Daniel Webster Highway. 125'
5.3 PG-13

Location:
The left big slab on Mt. Webster

Protection:
Standard rack, tricams, bolts, ring anchors.



2. Daniel Webster Highway    5.7 PG-13
   FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lauren Bergeron

A long moderate route up the leftmost of the large slabs on Mt. Webster (3,910'). This climb is located 100 yards left of the big central slab, home to the route Bore Tide.

This route offers cracks, flakes, and the occasional gear placement. Expect Whitehorse style run-outs throughout the climb. Two protection bolts were placed on pitch 5 on the lead. All pitches were equipped with ring anchors. Two 60M ropes are required for rappelling the route.

This low angled slab route has a great belay ledges and offers superb views of Crawford Notch. The granite is quality for the most part and has a nice alpine feel. The cliff is naturally pretty clean. The steeper crux section is short and the rest is moderate climbing.

All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill.

P1: Start at the toe of the slab just right of the steeper section of cliff. Climb right of the tree filled gully at 5.5 or to the left of the gully up the big overlap at 5.6 R. Finish at the tree ledge above. Move left to the tree below the obvious crack system on the slab above. 195'
5.5 PG-13

P2: Climb the wandering flaring crack getting gear when possible to a small ledge with bush's on it. Pull the small overlap off the ledge and regain a wide crack (maybe #5 or 6 cam?). Follow it to a small grass ledge with a ring anchor. 190' 5.5 PG-13

P3: Climb a short easy slab to gain a large left facing flake. Follow various flakes through the scoop. Run it out up a 5.3 slab to a ring anchor on a ledge. 190' 5.4 PG-13

P4: Continue up the easy slab to a tree ledge. Pull onto the steep slab (crux) and a gain a large right facing flake in the middle of the wall. Follow the flake until it ends. Angle right to another flake and continue straight up the rippled slab to a ring anchor. 190' 5.7 PG-13

P5: Step left off the anchor and climb straight up the excellent featured slab past two widely spaced bolts. Get gear in the cracks below the tree ledge and finish at a bolt/tree anchor. 195' 5.4 PG-13

P6: Pull the overlap and punch it up the slab with little protection to a ring anchor to the right of the bush's on top of the cliff. 120' 5.4 PG-13

Location:
The large left slab On Mt. Webster

Protection:
Standard rack to 3", 2 bolts, ring anchors
« Last Edit: September 16, 2013, 04:24:13 PM by Chinos »
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Chinos

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2013, 04:22:38 PM »

anybody know what the other line on the center slab is? Bore Tide and another bolted route that looks pretty good...

There are some pics on MP as well....
« Last Edit: September 16, 2013, 04:25:43 PM by Chinos »
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Climber57r

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2013, 05:15:21 PM »

Right on. Is there a line to the left of this with 2 bolts and an anchor? Not sure of the route. Felt 9ish with an R. The corner is on the right of a slab to a bulge/ ledge?
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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2013, 10:27:26 PM »

nice...
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Travis_Dustin

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2013, 10:29:13 AM »

So are these routes on this slab in the center of the picture and if not what is the route going up there?
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Chinos

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2013, 09:12:19 PM »

these routes are on the thin slab on the left side of the picture. There are two routes going up the center slab. Bore Tide and another route that I don't know. i have been asking around, but no luck so far.
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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2013, 10:21:41 PM »

talk to Curt Winkler, he knows all those routes. I think that he put up a lot of them...
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Travis_Dustin

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2013, 11:09:28 PM »

Those routes sound fun! That area confuses me a bit. there is lots of conflicting beta on routes there, where they are and how to get to them. I went up to find lost in the sun and ended up on something on that center slab. It seems like bore tide but ive got different info on where that one isand it felt hard but not 5.10 so im not sure. . Either way those look fun and I will check them out nexttie Im in the area. Thanks Chinos for all the good hard work you're doing!
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bubbalee

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Re: routes on webster slabs
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2014, 10:55:47 AM »

Your confusion is understandable. If you are viewing the photo lost in the sun is on slab further east on central gully. Bore tide is center right in this picture. The slab is split in the middle by a tree gully with a bulge on left. A route starts just under the bulge via a couple of flakes trending left a little bit up past two or three bolts trending right to a corner on the left side of the bulge finish on top of bulge with bolt anchor 5.8ish. Second pitch straight up past widely spaced bolts 250ft rope stretcher usually simuclimbed trending right to finish up on boretide. The route is called To bee or not to bee. Due to the white faced hornet nest at the start that year.
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