General > Rock Climbing: Sport

Climbtech Wave Bolts

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Pete Jackson:
I just got a couple of Climbtech Wave Bolts in the mail as samples.

http://www.climbtechgear.com/wavebolt-glue-in/

Chris Vinson told me that they can hold body weight after hammering them in, before the glue sets. That sounds like a good deal, except I'm dubious about whether it's a good idea. The bar stock looks a little skimpier than the glue-in eye bolts I'm used to seeing around the local crags. What do y'all think? Has anyone used these in NH (Rumney, crags along the kanc, etc)?

Anyone got an overhanging route under development and want to give a couple of these things a try?

strandman:
Pete- i seem to remember something similar in the UK that caused a ruckus ??

tradmanclimbz:
My personal opinion FWIW is that the emphasis of strength is over done. These bolts are super strong pullout specks but who cares . once it is strong enough to  break your climbing rope it is a moot point. My concern is that they are only 1/4" stock so useing them in any anchor aplication where wear is a concern is a super bad idea because they will be a real bitch to replace. even rigging them with quick links I could see how you may end up with a wear issue over time. personaly I would not place one anywhere that is going to get high traffic.  In short a very strong anchor with not enough beef for longevity INMOP

tradmanclimbz:
PS, I love Climb tech standard bolt hangers and quick links.

DaveR:
Thats more money per bolt than I pay for the 1/2" glueins that Ward and those guys have used at Rumney for years.
Dave

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