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Author Topic: Crystal blue persuasion.  (Read 1155 times)

ed_esmond

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #60 on: July 17, 2014, 07:05:55 AM »

I go to now read Bag11's ramblings again because they is so funny then I join Ed's "you are a joke" group. ??

Dave,

please don't mis-understand me; i don't think Lucky "is a joke,"  but that he's a "joker…"

he's making a "joke" and the "joke'" is that everyone falls for it.

repeatedly….

ed "take my wife, please…" e
« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 07:19:13 AM by ed_esmond »
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pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

lucky luke

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #61 on: July 17, 2014, 09:29:40 AM »

please don't mis-understand me; i don't think Lucky "is a joke,"  but that he's a "joker…"
I never make joke with safety. I don't want to teach you any thing, but we have one death per years in Quebec and, if you look at the accident in cathedral recently (the fall in the prow and what happen saturday) and some other that I withness, you are pretty close to that bad situation of one death per year.

And there is less climber. Nobody climb any more and it is rare that i found some one who can thread a pitch to have no rope drag without placing there life in danger. Any good leader who second a good climber for a year know that he most be in a good position in case of a leader fall, that we can say that the a-b-c position is one that we most look for, that he can describe it as direction and fall factor... But those who come from the gym and are already 5.10 climber think that they can climb like in a gym (Note: in some gym, in rhode island for example, they have a bolt on the floor to prevent those kind of injury).

You guy are not jimmy  Dunn, not a Joe Cote, Croft or a SA, neither I am. But these climber make the history...not Dman.

They climb a mountain, with his danger and beauty. They don't learn to avoid route with loose rock, they learn when it is time to bail, how they can do a move safely and so one. When I was climbing in Quebec, a hold broke at least two time a year in my hands. I remember one time that throwing the block behind me keep me in balance and i didn't felt. A close call.

There is always cycle or wave between time where the people are too dangerous and time where the people are too safe. 
we are in a time where the new climber don't learn there safety techniques and try to climb harder and harder. We are in a dangerous part of the cycle and climbing is less popular for that reason.

But the mountain is there to be climb.       

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DLottmann

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #62 on: July 17, 2014, 11:16:56 AM »

...But these climber make the history...not Dman.
...

I could care less about making history LL. Since I started guiding in 2004, and long before it, I've only cared about helping people learn to climb safely. I've dealt with 4 fatalities and many accidents over my 14 short years climbing in MWV, and am betting I'll see many more people fuck themselves up enjoying a sport I love.

Each accident I witness or respond to motivates me every day to become a better instructor and teacher.

I have no doubt the people that have climbed with me have learned some solid skills and think about safety every day they are out putting it on the line. I've had quite a few former avalanche students watch other groups get caught while they worked the terrain better and later attributed it to training they received from me. I have no question I have helped hundreds of people get into climbing on the right foot...

You however... I do question how you think your long rants here truly help anyone be a safer climber. Anyone that reads your posts either can't understand what you are talking about, or laughs at you, or laughs at me or anyone willing to engage you.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 02:44:26 PM by DMan »
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lucky luke

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #63 on: July 17, 2014, 08:53:18 PM »

I climb since 1985, rock and ice and my partner was always safw back home
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DLottmann

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #64 on: July 17, 2014, 09:30:54 PM »

I climb since 1985, rock and ice and my partner was always safw back home

You really are an asshole. I've never had a partner or client get hurt while with me, though the possibility will always be there. These accidents I refer to happened to other parties near me.
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pappy

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #65 on: July 17, 2014, 10:31:39 PM »

Hey guys, this is getting a little heated. It's just climbing, which is about as important as, oh, marbles. Lighten up.
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If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

M_Sprague

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #66 on: July 17, 2014, 11:01:28 PM »

Luke, do you think you could try for one month to not talk about the difference between sport and trad  or how people can climb safer? It is like somebody trying to sell Amway to you every time you see them. You end up trying to avoid them and finally wanting to bludgeon them to death with the nearest available object. Maybe try talking about a nice climb, area or your favorite type of rock to climb on or something. Any interesting new areas being found up your way that would be worth a visit?
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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neiceclimber

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #67 on: July 18, 2014, 08:41:40 AM »

If I had to guess, the reason LL spends so much time climbing south of his border is due to the FQME kicking him out for annoying everyone at the cliff.

Speaking of Quebec climbing, anyone ever climb Mont Pinnacle? Such a nice cliff over looking the lake and back towards VT.
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frik

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #68 on: July 18, 2014, 10:08:05 AM »

We used to Climb at the Pinnacle a lot. Back then it was called Lac Lyster - or maybe that's just what we called it.
A great spot. The locals did a pretty good job developing the place.   

There is a pretty decent Ice climb there too..
 
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lucky luke

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #69 on: July 18, 2014, 11:43:52 AM »

Hey guys, this is getting a little heated. It's just climbing, which is about as important as, oh, marbles. Lighten up.
When some one don't came back and they don't want that there name was in accident in north american mountaineering because the mistake is so basic... that worth to fight for safety..

One day or an other, there always will be a climber who will go to try canon, mt washington and other cliff, and because when we talk seriously about think like hand grip, direction of fall, force on the last pro, how the expert workout to place good nuts, ethic of bottom up, how to bail safely, you laught at those safety rules wrote in mountaineering freedom of the hill, those climber are going to have accident, they will make basic mistake.

I was a lifeguard before and rules like never leave your children close to a pool, close the gate, wear your safety jacket, etc, most always be remember each year to the swimmer...and still many death.

Why shouldn't talked about safety of trad, which is more important, and safety in a gym, which it easier to control. why couldn't describe cliff for trad, without always fighting bolt climber, and describe cliff for sport?

When people climb a long cliff without pushing themselve too high, just at a good chalenge...they love it and they want to learn more and when they come back to the gym...  it is less fun. You can even make route in a gym for workout  on sight in trad. In publicity, many company diversify there products to reach more client
 
 
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neiceclimber

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #70 on: July 18, 2014, 12:32:24 PM »


There is a pretty decent Ice climb there too..
 

Ah le gringalet, every year I make a plan to head up there but it never seems to happen, perhaps this will be the winter.
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markvnh

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Re: Crystal blue persuasion.
« Reply #71 on: July 18, 2014, 01:29:53 PM »

Frik,

I went up to Lac Lyster many years ago. Only got a couple shorter things in as I had absolutely no beta. Other than there was a cliff there. Have been up to try La Gringolet - but have actually never gotten too far up it due to poor conditions. It's still on the list.

Mark
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